Guide to San Miguel | Travel + Leisure
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Guide to San Miguel

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When to Go

April through May and September to mid-December are ideal times to visit, for pleasant weather and a series of traditional Mexican fiestas. Summer brings Texans fleeing the heat; in winter, Americans and Canadians come seeking warmth.

Getting There

Continental flies out of Houston and Dallas direct to León. Travelers departing from New York must change in Texas, or take a direct flight to Mexico City for a connection to León.

Where to Stay

Casa de Sierra Nevada 35 Hospicio; 800/701-1561; www.casadesierranevada.com; doubles from $290.

Dos Casas 101 Quebrada; 52-415/154-4073; www.livingdoscasas.com; doubles from $240.

Hotel Posada Carmina A bargain and a delight, this old-fashioned family-run hotel has 24 rooms and a courtyard restaurant serving Spanish dishes. 7 Cuna de Allende; 52-415/152-8888; www.posadacarmina.com; doubles from $96.

The Oasis A new four-room hotel in an 18th-century building, with interiors by local firm Mitu Atelier. 1A Chiquitos; 210/745-1457; www.oasissanmiguel.com; doubles from $260.

Where to Eat

La Buena Vida Stylish expats pack into this tiny bakery for coffee, pastries, and artisanal breads. 72-5 Hernández Macías; 52-415/152-2211; breakfast for two $10.

Café de la Parroquya Authentic Mexican breakfast—fresh fruit, excellent coffee, chilaquiles in green sauce, omelettes—and daily lunch specials served in a leafy courtyard a few steps from the Jardín. 11 Jesús; 52-415/152-3161; breakfast for two $6.50, lunch $14.60.

La Capilla Mexican-American fusion cuisine in the shadow of La Parroquia. 10 Cuna de Allende; 52-415/152-0698; dinner for two $60.

La Cartuja 107 Hernández Macías; 52-415/ 152-2057; lunch/dinner for two $80.

El Correo A cozy local favorite in a colonial building across from the post office. Try steak arrachera, sopa de tlapeño and enchiladas, tacos, and flautas. 3 Correo; 52-415/152-4951; lunch for two $18.

Ristorante da Andrea At 300-year-old Hacienda de Landeta, a few miles out of town, an Italian restaurateur oversees exquisite handmade pasta and fish that swims away. Carr. de Dr. Mora, Km. 2.5; 52-415/120-3481; dinner for two $50.

Where to Go Out

Berlin Bar and Café 19 Umurán; 52-415/154-9432.

Where to Shop

La Antigua Everything is white—handmade tablecloths, napkins, guayaberas, and other textiles—in this very Mexican shop. 9A Canal; 52-415/152-1043.

Bazar Unicornio An uncurated treasure trove of Mexican antiques, secondhand books, and folk art, both vintage and contemporary. 80 Hernández Macías; 52-415/152-1306.

Diva Mexican-flavored contemporary clothes: lots of linen, silk scarves, embroidered rebozos, jewelry. 72-4 Hernández Macías; 52-415/152-4980.

Goldie Designs Diane Goldie’s classic women’s clothing, original jewelry made with natural stones, and leather accessories. 19 Zacateros; 52-415/154-7420.

San Miguel Shoe Inspired by the town’s treacherous cobblestones, Santiago Gallardo Muñiz, from León, designs what local wits call combat cocktail sandals—sturdy enough to preserve women’s ankles, fashionable enough for a party. Three locations. 30 Reloj, 40 Hidalgo, 48 Mesones; 52-415/154-4702.

Zócalo In this stylish shop, American owners Rick and Debra Hall sell fine folk art, hand-selected from all over Mexico. 110 Hernández Macías; 52-415/152-0663.

What to Do

La Gruta Carr. San Miguel a Dolores, Km. 10; 52-415/185-2099.

House and Garden Tour See some of San Miguel’s finest houses and learn about colonial architecture. Tours leave the local library on Sundays at noon. Biblioteca Pública, 25 Insurgentes; 52-415/152-1210.

La Otra Cada de México This private collection of masks provides a surprising look at ceremonial beliefs and practices in Mexico today. By appointment. 32 Cuesta de San José; 52-415/154-4324.

El Santuario de Atotonilco Seven miles north of San Miguel on Dolores Hidalgo Hwy.; at juncture, turn west and drive two miles; 52-415/185-2050.

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