The nights are cool in winter, but days in Mérida can be hot and humid year-round (everyone has those charming string hammocks for a reasonthey're a great way to cool off). Direct flights from Mexico City arrive at the local airport; Cancún's international terminal is a four-hour drive. Planned on a grid that radiates outward from the Plaza Grande, Mérida's east-west streets have odd numbers that get higher as you head south. Those running north-south have even numbers that get higher as you head west.
WHERE TO STAY
Hacienda Petac
FOR GROUPS UP TO 10, MINIMUM FOUR-NIGHT STAY, FROM $5,657. 52-999/910-4334; www.haciendapetac.com
Hacienda San José Cholul
DOUBLES FROM $300. KM 30, CARRETERA TIXKOKOB-TEKANTO; 800/325-3589 OR 52-999/910-4617; www.starwood.com
Hacienda Xcanatun
Book the rock waterfall suite. DOUBLES FROM $240. KM 12, CARRETERA MÉRIDA-PROGRESO; 888/883-3633 OR 52-999/941-0273; www.xcanatun.com
Hotel Marionetas
A new bed-and-breakfast. DOUBLES FROM $70. 516 CALLE 49; 52-999/928-3377; www.hotelmarionetas.com
Los Dos
DOUBLES FROM $95; COOKING COURSES FROM $75. 517 CALLE 68; 52-999/928-1116; www.los-dos.com
Orangerie at Santa Ana
FROM $100 A NIGHT. 52-999/924-4145; urbanorentals@yahoo.com
Hacienda Temozón
DOUBLES FROM $300. KM 182, CARRETERA MÉRIDA-UXMAL; 800/325-3589 OR 52-999/923-8089; www.starwood.com
RESTAURANTS & BARS
Cafetería Pop
DINNER FOR TWO $25. 501 CALLE 57; 52-999/928-6163
El Burladero
605 CALLE 59; 52-999/928-5870
Néctar
DINNER FOR TWO $65. 412 CALLE 1; 52-999/938-0838
Pancho's
509 CALLE 59; 52-999/923-0942
Wayané
LUNCH FOR TWO $15. 92E CALLE 20; 52-999/927-4160
SHOPS
Casa de las ArtesanaIas
503 CALLE 63; 52-999/928-6676
Roberto Guzmán Antiques
Afternoons, by appointment. 199B CALLE 22; 52-999/965-2137
SERVICES
Urbano
CUSTOM TOURS FROM $300 A DAY. urbanomerida@yahoo.com
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