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What to do and see if you're staying at El Bulli Hotel Hacienda Benazuza.
CASA DE CARMONA (1 Plaza de Lasso, Carmona; 34/954-191-000, fax 34/954-191-189; www.casadecarmona.com, doubles from $198) If Benazuza can be said to have stolen another hotel's thunder, it's Casa de Carmona's. Opened in 1992, this authentically Andalusian Relais & Châteaux property is Benazuza minus the scale, heavy application of resources, and attitude. Anyone interested in the evolution of top-of-the-heap provincial hotels in Spain will want to stay at both. In any case, it would be reckless to visit Seville and not take at least a day trip to the prosperous town of Carmona. It's a painless 40-minute bus ride away and offers a lovely window on provincial life.
FINCA LA MIRANDILLA (Albaserrada; 34/955-783-332) Learn everything you always wanted to know (and then some) about the raising of fighting bulls at a ranch that supplies many of the region's plazas de toros.
GUARNICIONERIA VELAZQUEZ PEREJON (21 Calle Juan Delgado; 34/955-700-495) World-class riding boots, saddles, and other leather items are handmade on-site.
CERAMICAS LA MAYOR (26 Calle Cristóbal Colón; 34/955-700-495) Andalusia is flooded with shops selling industrial ceramics. Save your tile, plate, and vase purchases for this artisanal, limited-production boutique.
Guests at Benazuza book at Restaurante Alhucemas (4 Calle de Polideportivo; 34/955-700-929; dinner for two $85) or Casa Rufino (1 Calle Traspalacios, Umbrete; 34/955-716-272, dinner for two $37) when they want a break from Ferran Adrià's inventiveness. Both serve straightforward Andalusian classics.
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