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What to do if you're staying at Hotel Casa Morisca.
WHERE (ELSE) TO STAY
CASA DEL CAPITEL NAZARÍ (6 Cuesta Aceituneros; 34/958-215 260, fax 34/958-215806; www.hotelcasacapitel.com; doubles from $104) A 17-room hotel in a 16th-century house, the Nazarí is a good alternative if Casa Morisca is full.
PARADOR DE GRANADA (Calle Real de la Alhambra; 34/958-221-4401, fax 34/958-222-264; doubles from $260) The Parador is one of those mythic, maddening hotels that turns making a reservation into an extreme sport. Training required.
WHERE TO GO
Granada is full of shrill souvenir shops. For home furnishings, as well as jewelry, tiles, and other crafts, cut to the chase at Bazar Pazouki (15 Carrera del Darro; 34/958-221-371) and El Zoco Nazarí (50 Calle Reyes Católicos, 34/958-225-977).
AL-ANDALUS (4 Calle Calderería Vieja, 34/958-224-641) As Granada rediscovers its Islamic roots, laid-back lounges like this one are serving up mint tea and traditional Arab pastries—and passing the water pipe.
BAR LOS DIAMANTES (26 Calle Navas; 958-227-070; lunch for two $30) At lunchtime, when this proto-tapas bar is jammed with shopkeepers and office workers, it's every man for himself. Diamantes's specialty is battered and fried fish and vegetables.
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