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What to do and see if you're staying at Palacio de San Benitoor Trasierra.
CUADRAS AL PASO ANGEL CONDE (Km. 0.700, Carretera Ermita del Monte; 34/689-944-451; two-hour guided ride $44) If, like me, you haven't been on a horse in 35 years, you may need to be talked into mounting one for a ride through the Parque Natural Sierra Norte. But be brave—the fauna and landscapes are unlike anything you see on foot.
RIVERO (41 Virgen del Monte; 34/954-884-342) As much for townies as for tourists, this small, unpretentious shop sells pottery, straw hats, and local cheeses and olive oil.
LA CHURRERIA (5 Calle Egido; 34/954-884-015) Line up for some of the best churros—golden snakes of deep-fried dough—in Andalusia.
ANIS MIURA Cazalla is famed for its anise liqueurs. Having sampled them all, Charlotte Scott chooses this one to serve at Trasierra.
BAR LOS MELLIS (Calle La Plazuela; 34/954-884-295) Learn the complicated culture of tapas—how, what, and the quantity to order—with Gioconda Scott, Trasierra's chef, at her favorite Cazalla tapas bar.
PLAZA MAYOR Long before it became home to two spectacular hotels, Cazalla was a must-stop for travelers in pursuit of great architecture. Presiding over the town's main square, Plaza Mayor, are the Iglesia Parroquial de Nuestra Señora de la Consolación, its Mudéjar tower pierced with trefoil windows; a Baroque courthouse and cloisters; a Renaissance mansion; and a string of vernacular 16th-century Andalusian houses.
RESTAURANTE HOTEL POSADA DEL MORO (Paseo del Moro; 34/954-884-858; dinner for two $37) Whole fish, steaks, chops, and sausages are grilled, simply and perfectly, at this sidewalk restaurant popular with local families, who dine at sidewalk or terrace tables in summer.
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