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Classic Low Country Hotels

Dutch Treat: A Worthy Sequel

When Maartje Boudeling quit the stoves at Manoir Inter Scaldes in 2001 to retire, her move rocked the Flemish food world. Boudeling had earned two Michelin stars cooking on—and championing the extraordinary seafood of—the Zuid-Beveland peninsula, a flat, wind-rocked patchwork of wetlands, estuaries, canals, dams, dikes, and fishing villages 25 miles north of Antwerp.

Michelin was so confident in her replacement that it awarded Jannis Brevet the same rating without waiting the year usually required for a chef to prove himself. And so the fashionable crowd from Antwerp is back, ordering grilled turbot with red cabbage and fennel sauce.

The property has 12 guest rooms housed in an elongated cottage with crisp white dormers, a thatch roof, and French doors that link ground-floor accommodations with their own flower-fringed terraces. Dignified by the odd antique, they have an upbeat mix of stripes, checks, and florals, but the real thing they've got going for them is their size.

It's not every day that even the most curious travelers find themselves in Zuid-Beveland. At table and at turndown, Inter Scaldes rewards the trip.

Doubles from $185; dinner for two $165. 2 Zandweg, Kruiningen Yerseke, Netherlands; 31-113/381-753, www.relaischateaux.com

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