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London's Best Restaurants

London's Best Restaurants: Colbert

David Loftus

Colbert

On Sloane Square, next to the Royal Court Theatre, Colbert is the latest hit from Chris Corbin and Jeremy King, the gifted duo behind the indefatigable Wolseley. They’ve taken over the corner spot long occupied by Oriel, whose food was so lousy that the building’s landlord, the Earl of Cadogan, purportedly refused to renew the lease. Instead he turned the space over to Corbin and King, who upgraded it in the manner of an all-day Parisian café. With stage-set lighting, Buñuel posters, and distressed mirrors, Colbert could coast by on looks alone. Yet as at the Wolseley, the food is way better than it has to be. Come for breakfast, order the piquant blackberry-and-pear compote atop thick, tangy Greek yogurt with a side of nutty house-made granola, and your day will be the better for it.

colbertchelsea.com

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