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London's Best Restaurants

London's Best New Restaurants: Kitchen Table @ Bubbledogs

Jason Lowe

Kitchen Table @ Bubbledogs

But forget all those other places. The most exciting restaurant is this semi-secret gem called Kitchen Table, run by chef James Knappett and his wife, sommelier Sandia Chang. In a private room behind Bubbledogs (a hot-dogs-and-champagne bar in Fitzrovia), Knappett and three sous chefs prepare a nightly changing tasting menu for 19 guests. Over three mesmerizing hours, they apply ethereal techniques to earthy, woodsy ingredients—English truffles, foraged sorrel, confited pheasant—creating dishes that are complex yet comforting, novel yet deeply familiar. Verbena perfumes the sauce for butter-poached Scottish lobster; a pristine raw Dorset shrimp is laced with fresh dill and frozen horseradish. Chang and her wine team find ace pairings for each course, and the whole evening plays out like a freewheeling dinner party—albeit one hosted by a Per Se– and Noma-trained chef.


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