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London's Best Restaurants

London's Best New Restaurants: Lardo

Jason Lowe

Lardo

This summer 2012 opening—a short walk from London Fields and Broadway Market—is an uncanny simulacrum of Brooklyn that somehow wound up in Hackney. It hits all the marks of hipster chic: plywood ceilings and Edison bulbs; Belle & Sebastian on the stereo; bearded dudes in cable-knit sweaters romancing women with bangs. On the offal-y, Italian-leaning menu, house-made charcuterie is a standout, as is a smoky starter of grilled eggplant mashed with ricotta and dried mint. A salad of crispy pig’s ears with arugula, baby celery, and roasted shallots is finished with an orange-yolked, soft-cooked egg. The pizzas—made in a brick oven wackily covered in mirror tiles—occasionally fall flat in flavor, but the lardo pizza topped with marjoram and arugula is worth the schlep from central London.

lardo.co.uk

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