Travelers to Edinburgh with a taste for local flavors should skip the ubiquitous shortbread cookies and tinned haggis and pick up a hand-lettered bottle of 12-year-old Caol Ila whisky from a reserve cask at Demijohn. The peaty blend is available only at this pint-sized boutique, a cross between a liquor store and an apothecary. The shop's shelves are lined with demijohns (bottles) filled with artisanal wines, meads, and spirits. (Sampling is encouraged.) The best part?You choose the shape and size of your container, and Demijohn will fill it with the single malt on the spot. Demijohn, 32 Victoria St.; 44-131/225-3265; www.demijohn.co.uk; $60 for 500 ml.