On a quest for beauty and solitude, my husband and I encountered a hidden treasure floating in the wine-dark Aegean. We are reluctant to share the lovely Greek island of Folégandros and the fabulous hotel we discovered there, but here goes. Set on a sheer cliff overlooking the sea, the Anemomilos [30-286/41309, fax 30-286/41407; doubles $55-$140, with kitchen], run by Dimitri and Cornelia Patelis, is a wonderful whitewashed hideaway with spectacular views. The small main square in the town of Chora comes to life every evening, illuminated by hundreds of tiny lights strung from tree limbs and the roofs of local tavernas. This is the real Greece, not a tourist trap.
Melanie Williams Galuten
Santa Monica, Calif.
Art of the Journey
I thoroughly enjoyed Steven Aronson's illustrated essay on scrapbooks ["Can This Vacation Be Saved?" March] -- especially the work of Marc Lacaze, whose paintings we see each month on your Letters page. His images from exotic parts of the world are made all the more intriguing by the old envelopes he chooses to paint on.
Al Weisel's "How Secure Is That Hotel Safe?" [Smart Going, March] certainly rang true for me. On my last stay at the Hotel Barocco in Rome, there was an electrical malfunction that made it impossible for me to open the safe in my room. I was rushing to catch a flight, so I called the bellman -- who got the safe open in minutes using a heavy screwdriver. Glad it was done for my benefit.
Kent St. John
The Musts of Malta
It was a delight to read Mary Gordon's story about Malta in your July 1998 issue (my T&L's are slow in catching up with me). To her many interesting observations I would add a note about the islands' rich pre-Christian culture, as evidenced in temples and sculptures of goddesses that are unique to Malta. And then there are the culinary treats: the cheese- or pea-filled pastries called pastizzi, sold on street corners and in Ms. Gordon's favorite, Café Cordina; the fabulous capers, sun-dried tomatoes, and honey; and the country bread, which may be the best in the world.
Minnie Kent Biggs
In New Orleans recently, I headed to Arnaud's restaurant to taste the soufflé potatoes recommended so highly by Anya von Bremzen in T&L's Food column for February. To my disappointment, the dish was not being offered because the potatoes available at market that day were of poor quality. My dinner was great and the service was impeccable. Still, readers determined to try the dish might want to inquire about it when they call to reserve.
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