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L.A.'s French Food Scene

A trio of Gallic-inspired openings has caused a stir on the L.A. food scene. At Opaline (7450 Beverly Blvd.; 323/857-6725; dinner for two $85), the focal point of the green-and-chocolate dining room is chef David Lentz's solid California-Mediterranean cooking: baby squid and white bean salad; rabbit confit and Serrano ham crêpe with chanterelles and leeks. · With its palette of putty and beige, the Zen-like space at Sona (401 N. La Cienega Blvd.; 310/659-7708; dinner for two $138) is a fitting backdrop for David Myers's degustation menu. Is the food Japanese?Is it French?Don't bother trying to pigeonhole it; just put yourself in Myers's talented hands. · Chef Alain Giraud's highly anticipated Bastide (8475 Melrose Place; 323/651-5950; dinner for two $120) was two years in the making. But the Provençal restaurant, designed by French decorator Andrée Putman, surpasses expectations.Giraud's "cannelloni"—crab wrapped in a wafer-thin slice of melon and set in a glistening muscat gelée—is a must-order. But just try to snag a reservation.

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