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From mid-July through the end of August, the valleys of Valtellina and Valchiavenna are overcrowded. It's best to visit in spring or early fall, when the weather is good and visitors have the area practically to themselves.
GETTING THERE
Trains to Sondrio or Tirano leave just about every two hours from Milan's Centrale Station. The trip takes about two-and-a-half hours by train. Or you can drive there in three hours.
Elitellina Helicopter
Another way to arrive is by helicopter. Flights from Malpensa, Linate, or Orio al Serio (Bergamo) airport arrive in Chiavenna, Sondrio, or Bormio. Or while you're in the area, book a panoramic flight ($830 for up to five people) over Pizzo Bernina, Valtellina's highest peak. $3,700 FOR A FIVE-PERSON HELICOPTER CHARTER FROM LINATE TO BORMIO. 39-0342/213-336
GETTING AROUND
In the Valtellina, rent a car from Avis (39-0342/511-455; www.avis.com) or Hertz (39-0342/910-134; www.hertz.it).
Gianolini
If you'd rather see the area in style, hire a car and driver from this Sondrio-based company. (Note: Italian-speakers only.) FROM $102 FOR TWO PER DAY, INCLUDING AIRPORT TRANSFER FROM MALPENSA. 39-0342/216-220
Minerva Limousine
This Milan-based agency has facilities in the Valtellina—and English-speaking drivers. FROM $230 PER DAY. 39-02/6129-0742; www.minervalimousine.it
TRIP PLANNER
Tre Laghi Creative European Travel
For travelers who like to end a hard day of hiking with a gourmet meal and a feather-soft bed, Tre Laghi can book the entire trip. An eight-day tour takes in the Valchiavenna, Lake Como, and Switzerland's Engadine region. FROM $3,570 PER PERSON, INCLUDING ACCOMMODATIONS, MEALS, AND WINE. 800/293-1117 OR 503/227-2434; www.trelaghi.com
A PERFECT ITINERARY
Lower and Middle Valtellina
3 to 5 days. Stay in Ardenno, Sondrio, Tresivio, or Bianzone. Follow the Panoramica dei Castelli from Sondrio to Teglio, through vineyards, rural hamlets, and towns like Tresivio. Take the main SS38 route to Tirano. Shop for wine, food, and jewelry, explore cultural sites, and indulge in the local cuisine. Catch the Bernina Express train from Tirano to St. Moritz for a daylong side trip. Drive or hike around some of the area's lateral valleys (Valgerola, Valmalenco, Valmasino, Valdimello).
Upper Valtellina
2 to 5 days. Stay in the spa resort of Bormio and explore the historic town. Tour the Braulio cellars, hike in the dramatic Upper Valley, and examine the primitive carvings at Grosio. You can easily visit Tirano's wine producers from here. Tip: Avoid weekends.
Valchiavenna
3 to 5 days. Stay in Chiavenna. Explore the valley's churches, museums, antique palazzi, restaurants, and artisanal stores. Take one all-day hike.
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