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Fall and spring in Aveyron have heavenly weather and few crowds. But in summer, the water sports and hiking are just as enticing.
Fly to London or Paris and catch one of the daily connecting flights or the train to Rodez. Or take the high-speed train (TGV) from Paris to Montpellier, and rent a car for the 1 1/2-hour drive to Millau, which takes you over the Millau Viaduct.
Plan to drive, bike, or hike between villages; in the more bucolic areas there is little in the way of bus or taxi service.
Aveyron has scores of wonderful midrange hotel-restaurants as well as innumerable chambres d'hôtes (B&B's), many in exquisite settings. These are just a few.
Mostuéjouls; 33-5/65-62-60-01; hotel-delamuse.fr; doubles from $176; dinner for two $131.
Rte. de Conques et de Marcillac, Onet-le-Château; 33-5/65-77- 76-00; hostellerie-fontanges.com; doubles from $85; dinner for two $82.
A 12th-century château with 30 dreamy rooms, some with balconies over the gardens, others looking out over the Millau Viaduct. Rte. de St.-Affrique, Millau; 33-5/65-60-16-59; www.chateau-de-creissels.com; doubles from $83, dinner for two $63.
Reserve months in advance. Rte. de l'Aubrac, Laguiole; 33-5/65-51-18-20; www.michel-bras.com; doubles from $306; dinner for two $207.
Belcastel; 33-5/65-64-52-29; hotelbelcastel.com; doubles from $102; dinner for two $136.
Fashion designer Catherine Painvin fled Paris for the Himalayas and finally ended up in Aubrac. The inn, with only six rooms—each more eccentric and wonderful than the last—is a favorite of connoisseurs. Aubrac; 33-5/65-48-78-84; catherinepainvincouture.com; doubles from $231; dinner for two $95.
A medieval hamlet turned into a hotel in a 54-acre park high above the Aveyron River. Even the swimming pool has a fantastic view. Najac; 33-5/65-48-78-84; longcol.com; doubles from $197; dinner for two $95.
There is no good guidebook to Aveyron, so you'll want to rely on tourism offices for both advance and on-the-ground planning, not just for additional sights and hotels but also for sports outfitters of all kinds. They can show you how to follow the pilgrims' road to Saint Jacques de Compostelle, for example, a route that includes the magnificent abbey in Conques. Many castles and fortresses offer tours. In Paris, contact Maison de l'Aveyron (33-1/42-36-84-63; maison-aveyron.org). If you're researching online, try the Comité Départemental du Tourisme de l'Aveyron (tourisme-aveyron.com); their site will also provide a list and interactive map of the region's Most Beautiful Villages of France (a designation made by a historical preservation association of the same name). The two biggest centers for outdoor sports are Millau and Najac.
Roquefort-sur-Soulzon; 33-5/65-58-54-38;roquefort-societe.com.
St.-Léons; 33-5/65-58-50-50; micropolis.biz.
Office du Tourisme de Millau, 1 Place du Beffroi, Millau; 33-5/65-60-02-42; ot-millau.fr.
14 Place Raynaldi, Rodez; 33-5/65-73-84-30; musee-fenaille.com.
Millau; 33-5/65-60-11-37.
Aveyron's famous Laguiole knives can be bought at the new factory, designed by Philippe Starck, at the edge of the village of Laguiole (Rte. de l'Aubrac; 33-5/65-48-43-34; forge-de-laguiole.com). For fine handmade leather gloves, ask at Musée de Millau (Hôtel de Pégayrolles, Place Foch, Millau; 33-5/65-59-01-08) for information about local ateliers.
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