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Insider's Guide to Paris

Aux Tonneaux des Halles

Marie Hennechart

Aux Tonneaux des Halles

This resolutely blue-collar watering hole dates back to the early 1900’s, when the nearby Les Halles market was still running and hungry workers would fill the tables. The only things in the restaurant that were revamped when the current owner took over in 1991 were the wine list (now mostly biodynamic) and the quality of the food. Lyn favors the purée de pommes de terre (some of the best in town), the steaks (often served with enormous marrowbones), and the crisp duck confit. It’s a good sign that many of the restaurant’s patrons have been lunch regulars for the past 40 years. Warning: As in many bistros with one foot in the early 20th century, vegetables are a bit of an afterthought. 28 Rue Montorgueil, First Arr.; 33-1/42-33-36-19; lunch for two $50. —Alexandra Marshall

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