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Chiang Mai is 531 miles north of Bangkok; there are daily shuttle flights between the cities. The 217-mile route from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son is well-maintained and easy to drive; my trip took two days. Affordable rental cars are readily available.
WHERE TO STAY
Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai Stylish villas with views of rice fields in the Mae Rim Valley, a 30-minute drive outside Chiang Mai. The spa uses local herbs and aromatic oils. DOUBLES FROM $375. 502 MAE RIM SAMOENG OLD RD., RIM TAI; 800/819-5053 OR 66-53/298-181; www.fourseasons.com/chiangmai
Muang Pai Resort Teak A-frame cottages in the foothills about four miles north of Pai. DOUBLES FROM $21. 94 MOO 4, BAAN MOR PAENG, T. MAE NATOENG, PAI; 66-53/270-906; http://muangpai.infothai.com
Rim-Pai Cottage Basic accommodations with hot showers along the Pai River. DOUBLES FROM $10. 99/1 MOO 3 VIANGTAI, PAI; 66-53/699-133; www.rimpaicottage.com.
Tara Mae Hong Son Hotel This 104-room hotel overlooks a lush garden and a small stream. DOUBLES FROM $53. 149 MOO 8, PANG MOO, MAE HONG SON; 66-53/611-021; www.imperialhotels.com
WHERE TO EAT
Aroon Restaurant A down-home favorite for northern Thai cuisine, just across from the old city moat. DINNER FOR TWO $7. 45 KOTCHASAN RD., CHIANG MAI 66-53/276-947
All About Coffee The house-baked cakes and pastries at this café are perfect for breakfast. BREAKFAST FOR TWO $3. CHAISONGKRAM RD., PAI; 66-53/699-429
Bai Fern Restaurant Fresh Thai salads and Chinese noodle dishes. DINNER FOR TWO $6. 87 KHUNLUMPRAPAS RD., MAE HONG SON; 66-53/611-374
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