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Naples' Food Scene

Making the Rounds: Pizza

Pizza originated in Naples and is delicious here. Perhaps it's the traditional domed wood-burning ovens, which heat up to more than 600 degrees and bake the pizza in less than 90 seconds. Perhaps it's the neon-ringed shrines to Saint Anthony (the bakers' patron) near most pizza ovens—Neapolitans are relentlessly superstitious. The crust here is thicker and more doughy than crisp northern-style pizza, because it's patted flat by hand rather than rolled out. I like the margherita (tomato sauce, mozzarella, and basil), but purists insist on the cheeseless marinara (tomato sauce, oregano, and garlic). The right way to eat pizza: cut a wedge and, beginning at the point, roll it up. Then cut across the roll, impale on a fork, and eat. Some pizzerias even provide special knives that have their tips lopped off at an angle and sharpened to facilitate the process.

My favorite pizzeria is Cafasso, in the Fuorigrotta area. It's always busy, and the pie is excellent. It's the ideal combination of a chewy, almost burnt crust with a light coating of San Marzano canned tomato purée. Also on the menu are deep-fried dishes such as crocché (potato croquettes) and pizza fritta (dough folded in half around ricotta and salami). • For a truly authentic (if rather down-at-the-heels) experience, try Pizzeria Addò Riccio, in Sanità. The menu is written on a black board on the wall. Check the refrigerator for beer or soft drinks (try San Pellegrino Aranciata Amara, a bitter orange soda), and snack on deep-fried migliacelli (cheese and prosciutto-studded semolina patties) or arancini rice balls before the main event: crisp pizza that rivals that of Cafasso. Pizzaiolo (pizza maker) Enrico Fiorenzo will call you a taxi when you're ready to leave. • Ciro a Santa Brigida makes tasty pizza, using buffalo mozzarella on its margherita. Plus, unlike most pizzerias, it takes reservations.

Address Book


Europeo Dinner for two $58. 4-8 Via Marchese Campodisola; 39-081/552-1323
La Stanza del Gusto Dinner for two $87. 21 Vicoletto Sant'Arpino; 39-081/401-578
Osteria da Dora Dinner for two $90. 30 Via Ferdinando Palasciano; 39-081/680-519
Rosiello Dinner for two $90. 10 Via Santo Strato; 39-081/769-1288
Taverna dell'Arte Dinner for two $50. 1A Rampe San Giovanni Maggiore; 39-081/552-7558


Cafasso Dinner for two $30. 156-158 Via Giulio Cesare; 39-081/239-5281
Pizzeria Addò Riccio Dinner for two $23. 46-47 Via Fontanelle; 39-081/544-6292
Ciro a Santa Brigida Dinner for two $68. 71-74 Via Santa Brigida; 39-081/552-4072


Gran Caffè La Caffettiera 30 Piazza dei Martiri; 39-081/764-4243
Gran Caffè Gambrinus 1-2 Via Chiaia; 39-081/417-582
Carraturo 59 Corso Garibaldi; 39-081/554-5344
Otranto 78 Via Scarlatti; 39-081/558-7498


banco dell'acqua 61 Riviera di Chiaia; no phone
Chiquitos 2 Via Mergellina; no phone
Da Tonino 52 Via Alessandro Poerio; 39-081/201-121
Tarallificio Leopoldo 212 Via Foria; 39-081/451-166


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