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T+L Reports: I'll Take Tokyo

Japan's latest temple of gastronomy, Sens & Saveurs, is even more French than its name suggests—it's run by Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, twin chefs who earned their reputation with Jardin des Sens, the three-star restaurant in Montpellier, and with the fashionable La Compagnie des Comptoirs bistros there and in Avignon. Backing the Pourcels in their first Asian venture is Hiroyuki Hiramatsu, whose namesake Paris restaurant won a Michelin star less than a year after opening. Located in the upper reaches of a skyscraper in the Marunouchi district, Sens & Saveurs has panoramic views stretching from the Imperial Palace to Mount Fuji. Its meta-sleek design includes high- backed banquettes by Philippe Starck disciple Imaad Rahmouni (referencing those at Hiramatsu in Paris). The Pourcels' inaugural menu reprises a number of their greatest hits: terrine of lobster; duck ham and baby vegetables in vanilla oil; bass with citron confit; roast squab mille-feuille; and a tongue-in-cheek passion fruit "milk shake" for dessert. Who says the French don't have a sense of humor?Sens & Saveurs, 35/F Marunouchi Bldg., 2-4-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo; 81-3/5220-2701; dinner for two $128.

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