WHY NOW Celebrate like Louis XIV with four-star cuisine, princely pampering, and a stroll around the Sun King's château. Discover the discreet yet sumptuous charm of the Paris suburb, 30 minutes from the city, that began as a royal retreat.
WHERE TO STAY It's tempting never to leave the Trianon Palace (1 Blvd. de la Reine; 33-1/30-84-50-00; www.starwood.com; doubles from $580), which sits like a lady-in-waiting on the threshold of the Château de Versailles. The majestic 1910 hotel—which underwent a thorough renovation in 2001—has grand public spaces and stately rooms filled with Louis XVI-style furniture. The hotel is also a historic site: the Treaty of Versailles was drawn up in its Clemenceau Ballroom in 1919.
CHRISTMAS DINNER The best meal in Versailles is steps from your room. Chef Gérard Vié oversees Les Trois Marches (dinner for two $516), the Trianon Palace's exquisite restaurant. Splurge on dishes such as pain perdu with truffles and lobster, crab, or squab in an elegant glass-walled salon overlooking the park. But save room for a lavish dessert—a crisp mille-feuille layered with cocoa sherbet and chocolate cream, topped with a warm chocolate sauce—followed by a bounty of cookies and bonbons from the kitchen.
TO MARKET Though the covered, red-brick public markets at the Marché Notre Dame were founded by Louis XIV, today's versions date from the 19th century (they were restored in 1991). Stalls in the center of the square are open only on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays, but seasonal indoor shops—the region's main source for local cheeses and fresh fruits—are open daily.
ART SCENE The official museum of the city of Versailles, the Musée Lambinet (54 Blvd. de la Reine; 33-1/39-50-30-32; admission $6) is decorated with treasures seized from the French court during the Revolution. Displays place particular emphasis on the lives of Jean-Paul Marat, the radical journalist and Jacobin, and his murderer, Charlotte Corday.
NIGHT LIGHTS Despite Versailles's attractions, all roads eventually lead to Paris. Head there after dark: as you turn right on the ramp that merges with the road to the capital, the Eiffel Tower suddenly looms, lit all in white. —Michael Gross
2004 Holiday Destinations:
Bocas del Toro, Panama |
Schweitzer, Idaho | Darjeeling, India | Dublin, Ireland | St. Bart's | Versailles, France | Taipei, Taiwan | Cooperstown, New York | Frankfurt, Germany | San Francisco
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