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Holidays 2004: Taipei, Taiwan

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WHY NOW Considering that Taiwan is barely 4 percent Christian, you may be surprised to see reminders of Christmas everywhere (of course, those lights on your tree back home were probably made here). Some bus drivers dress as Santa; the streets echo with sped-up versions of "Jingle Bells." Plus, this is the one time of year when Taiwan's heat and humidity are comparable to San Francisco's.

WHERE TO STAY On a hilltop north of the city center, the Grand Hotel (1 N. Chung Shan Rd., Section 4; 886-2/2886-8888; www.grand-hotel.org; doubles from $147) looks like a Chinese temple gone high-rise. It's a destination unto itself: the soaring lobby, with its floor-to-ceiling Christmas tree, is a backdrop for camera-crazy tourists. Boutique-hotel lovers might consider the Kodak Hotel III (15 Lane 83, N. Chung Shan Rd., Section 1; 886-2/2531-9999; doubles from $106) in the central Chung Shan district, with club-style lighting and silk bedcovers.

CULTURE BEAT No visit to Taipei is complete without a stop at the National Palace Museum (221 Jhihshan Rd., Section 2; 886-2/2881-2021; www.npm.gov.tw). Here, 650,000 bronzes, ceramics, jades, paintings, and manuscripts comprise the world's largest Chinese art collection.

EAT IN, TAKE OUT Unsung but spirited, Taipei's "beer houses," serving brew and spicy Chinese dishes, make a nice alternative to the typical holiday turkey and stuffing. Try Indian (196 Bade Rd., Section 2; 886-2/2741-0550; dinner for two $15), where sizzling plates of beef, seafood, and—for the adventurous—duck tongues are served on communal wooden tables surrounded by random replicas of dinosaur skeletons. Or do as the locals do and stop by the stalls lining Yongkang Street for beef noodle soup and mango shaved ice.

MALL MADNESS Massive shopping complexes are the rage in this fast-developing town, and they sell everything from tiny trinkets to designer fashion. Check out Taipei 101 (45 Shihfu Rd.; 886-2/8101-7777; www.tfc101.com.tw), at the base of the world's tallest building; Core Pacific City Living Mall (138 Bade Rd., Section 4; 886-2/3762-1888), an architectural marvel with its giant-orb exterior and 11 floors of shops; and Sunrise Department Store (15 N. Fusing Rd., Section 1; 886-2/2731-2001), which peddles Taiwan's top designers.

CHILL OUT The new Wellspring Spa (41 N. Chung Shan Rd., Section 2; 886-2/2523-8000; www.regenthotels.com) atop the Grand Formosa Regent hotel has a streamlined interior of natural wood and stone, deep soaking tubs, and treatments such as the "traveler's perk" massage, perfect for overcoming jet lag. —Andrew Bender

2004 Holiday Destinations:
Bocas del Toro, Panama | Schweitzer, Idaho | Darjeeling, India | Dublin, Ireland | St. Bart's | Versailles, France | Taipei, Taiwan | Cooperstown, New York | Frankfurt, Germany | San Francisco
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What's your favorite thing to do during an airport layover?

  • Browse duty-free
  • Read gossip mags
  • Grab a bite
  • Take a nap
  • Catch up on email
  • Listen to my iPod

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