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Holidays 2004: Schweitzer, Idaho

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WHY NOW Set far up in the Idaho Panhandle (60 miles from the Canadian border and a 90-minute drive from the Spokane airport), the up-and-coming Schweitzer Mountain Resort delivers challenging slopes, small-town charm, and feather-light snow without putting a dent in your wallet.

WHERE TO STAY The Selkirk Lodge and the White Pine Lodge (10000 Schweitzer Mountain Rd.; 800/831-8810 or 208/263-9555; www.schweitzer.com; Selkirk doubles from $135; White Pine doubles from $229), both centrally located high on the mountain, anchor Schweitzer's compact ski village. White Pine is a post and beam-style resort made up of modern one- to three-bedroom condos with full kitchens, gas fireplaces, and sensational views of Pend Oreille Lake. With a slight European flair, the Selkirk features pine furniture, a slopeside pool, and wintry prints of 1930's Idaho.

CHRISTMAS DINNER Order a glass of Pend d'Oreille Winery's Cab-Merlot to accompany seared duck breast with huckleberry reduction at the Chimney Rock Grill (10000 Schweitzer Mountain Rd.; 208/255-3071; dinner for two $60).

HIT THE SLOPES Whether you're an expert skier or a snowplow queen, you'll want to ride the Great Escape Chairlift to Schweitzer's 6,400-foot summit—on a clear day you can see all the way to British Columbia. To explore the backcountry, enlist the Selkirk Powder Co. (866/464-3246; www.selkirkpowderco.com). Their guided tours cover 4,000 acres of untracked powder via snowmobile and snowcat.

STOCKING STUFFERS Drive carefully to reach the town of Sandpoint, nine miles down snow-packed switchbacks, to find hand-forged iron candlestands and Bella Note linens at Cabin Fever (113 Cedar St.; 208/263-7179; www.cabinfeverltd.com). A block away, mail-order giant Coldwater Creek (334 N. First Ave.; 208/263-2265; www.coldwatercreek.com) is built on the town's Cedar Street Bridge. In addition to its large selection of stylish Western wear, there's a wine bar overlooking the river.

HOLIDAY HIGHLIGHTS Danceworks & Co. perform "A Danceworks Christmas" on December 16 at the 1927 Spanish Mission-style Panida Theater (300 N. First Ave., Sandpoint; 208/263-9191; www.panida.org). On December 18, Schweitzer Village hosts its traditional Christmas Tree Lighting (expect carols, mulled wine, and hot cocoa). The annual Winter Carnival, complete with a torchlight parade down the mountain, takes place January 15. —Kimberly Brown Seely

2004 Holiday Destinations:
Bocas del Toro, Panama | Schweitzer, Idaho | Darjeeling, India | Dublin, Ireland | St. Bart's | Versailles, France | Taipei, Taiwan | Cooperstown, New York | Frankfurt, Germany | San Francisco
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