AddThisWHY NOW Although you may not realize it, Frankfurt becomes magical at this time of year. The surrounding Taunus mountains are filled with charming cities like Bad Homburg and Kronberg, snow-covered castles, and lively Christmas markets. The city itself is for more than just bankers and book fairs: there are Michelin-starred restaurants, a world-famous orchestra at the city's Alte Opera, and Expressionist exhibits at the Stäedel Museum.
WHERE TO STAY The most gemütlich hotel in the city center, just five minutes from the Christmas market, is the 1876 Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof (Am Kaiserplatz; 49-69/21502; www.frankfurter-hof.steigenberger.de; doubles from $527), a grande dame frequented by visiting dignitaries and stylish young families. The old-world Schlosshotel Kronberg (25 Hainstrasse; 49-61/737-0101; www.schlosshotel-kronberg.de; doubles from $353) in Kronberg was built by the Empress Frederick in the late 1800's and is still independently owned by the family of Prince von Hessen.
CHRISTMAS DINNER Rub elbows with the sophisticated locals who gather at the Schlosshotel in Jimmy's Bar, where you can see an original Turner, Skyline of Venice Draped in Fog. Visit the hotel's formal restaurant (dinner for two $150) for traditional Christmas goose with red cabbage and dumplings, the specialties of the season. Reservations are a must at Tigerpalast (16-20 Heiligkreuzgasse; 49-69/920-0220; www.tigerpalast.de; dinner for two $200), an inventive, Michelin-starred restaurant (artichokes with piñon-foam soup, fried-lobster cannelloni) with a variety show featuring tango acrobatics, renowned jugglers, and a triple-jointed performer.
LOCAL FLAVOR Regional delicacies can be found at any of the several Kneipen (German pub-style restaurants). Wagner (71 Schweizer Str.; 49-69/612-565; dinner for two $37), in Sachenhausen, Frankfurt's historic apple-wine district, pours endless jugs of the drink to accompany generous servings of bratwurst. Enjoy the steaming bowls of goulash and Bavarian cheese spaetzle at the alpine-kitsch Fuchstanz (49-61/742-1281; www.fuchstanz.de; dinner for two $30) in the Taunus national park; it can be reached only on foot.
TO MARKET Every weekend a different town in the Taunus hosts a Christmas market. The one with the most festive crowd and atmosphere is in Kronberg, a city with centuries-old wooden buildings and narrow cobblestoned streets; it takes place the second weekend of December. Find everything from authentic ornaments to the best wurst you've ever had. —Gisela Williams
2004 Holiday Destinations:
Bocas del Toro, Panama |
Schweitzer, Idaho | Darjeeling, India | Dublin, Ireland | St. Bart's | Versailles, France | Taipei, Taiwan | Cooperstown, New York | Frankfurt, Germany | San Francisco
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