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WHY NOW It's called the craic—you've probably heard of it. And if the fabled Irish love of a good time ever reaches a high point, it is in Dublin over the Christmas holidays. The whole city embraces celebrations that range from the sacred (candlelit concerts in Gothic cathedrals) to the secular (the legendary pubs really come to life). Fáilte to the Fair City.
WHERE TO STAY For luxury, service, and tradition, it's hard to match the Merrion (Upper Merrion St.; 353-1/603-0600; www.merrionhotel.com; doubles from $434). Located in a row of handsome Georgian houses in the heart of Dublin, the hotel is aglow with roaring fires, decorative lights, and a towering Christmas tree decked with velvet ribbons and golden angels. An afternoon (champagne) tea is served in one of the art-and-antiques-filled drawing rooms. More affordable is Number 31 (31 Leeson Close; 353-1/676-5011; www.number31.ie; doubles from $186, including breakfast). Part Georgian town house, part groovy seventies crash pad, it's a secluded yet popular 20-room boutique B&B just off St. Stephen's Green.
CHRISTMAS DINNER With its lively, comfortable dining rooms, Roly's Bistro (7 Ballsbridge Terrace, Ballsbridge; 353-1/668-2611; www.rolysbistro.ie; dinner for two $124) is something of a south Dublin institution—there's no better place for Dublin Bay prawns and Kerry lamb. The restaurant even sells its own Christmas puddings made with cherries, apricots, and dates, all soaked in Guinness and Irish whiskey.
AFTER DARK In winter, along with creamy pints (never "halves") of Guinness, locals enjoy steaming hot ports and whiskies. Sugar and boiling water are added to either tipple, which is then spiced with cloves set in a slice of lemon. Grab a glass at the friendly, Victorian-style Long Hall (51 S. Great George's St.; 353-1/475-1590), or at Ron Black's (37 Dawson St.; 353-1/672-8231), which has a cooler, clublike vibe, with leather sofas and chill music.
STOCKING STUFFERS Avoca (11-13 Suffolk St.; 353-1/677-4215; www.avoca.ie) puts contemporary twists on mohair blankets, housewares, fashion, toys, and collectibles—plus, it has the most intricate Christmas window displays in town. In Merrion Square, Irish designer Louise Kennedy (56 Merrion Square S.; 353-1/662-0056) creates and sells her own line of tailored women's suits and silk gowns—favored by visiting celebrities such as Meryl Streep—as well as Philip Treacy hats and Lulu Guinness handbags.
HOLIDAY CONCERT It's little known outside of Ireland that the Messiah, Handel's glorious oratorio,was first performed in Dublin in 1742, and the city celebrates with performances every December. The most ethereal is in the soaring vaults of St. Patrick's Cathedral (St. Patrick's Close; 353-1/475-4817; www.stpatrickscathedral.ie). —Philip Watson
2004 Holiday Destinations:
Bocas del Toro, Panama |
Schweitzer, Idaho | Darjeeling, India | Dublin, Ireland | St. Bart's | Versailles, France | Taipei, Taiwan | Cooperstown, New York | Frankfurt, Germany | San Francisco
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