WHY NOW For an exotic take on Western holiday traditions, head to Darjeeling, in northeast India. This former British colonial resting spot in the foothills of the Himalayas (elevation: 7,000 feet) combines English customs with the culture of neighboring Nepal and Tibet—it's not uncommon to finish off a cucumber sandwich with a salty Tibetan butter tea.
HOW TO GET THERE The steam engine Toy Train (www.indianrail.gov.in), just wide enough to seat three people per row, departs from Jalpaiguri and is the most exciting way to reach town. The eight-hour journey takes you through small, tidy villages, making stops for chai and sweets.
WHERE TO STAY During the Raj era, overheated sahibs from Calcutta came to recover in sub-alpine serenity at the Windamere Hotel (Observatory Hill; 91-354/225-4041; www.windamerehotel.com; doubles from $142). The landmark sits on one of the highest points in town; all of its rooms have precipitous views of the valleys below and peaks in the distance. The first Christmas dinner here was held in 1939, and not much has changed since. The entertainers, decorations, and traditional pudding appear just as they do in the collection of antique photographs displayed in the firelit drawing room. Go easy on the hot toddies—earnest young carolers from a nearby school come knocking at 5 a.m. to sing an Indian version of "White Christmas."
LOCAL FLAVOR Darjeeling's main export is tea, so it's not hard to locate a good blend. Along with hearty curries, Glenary's (Nehru Rd.; 91-354/225-7554; dinner for two $6) serves silver pots of the region's best Darjeeling in front of picture windows that frame Mount Kanchenjunga. Ask for the rare "first flush." To find the largest selection of specialty teas and get a lesson on how to distinguish an autumn flush from a plain old Assam, go to Nathmulls Tea Room (Laden La Rd.; 91-354/225-3529; www.nathmulltea.com).
FEELING SPIRITUAL Christian Mass is held in Bengali and English at several churches in town. Ride the Toy Train to Yiga-Choling monastery in Ghoom to see monks chanting and burning incense; the ornate temple, which belongs to the Dalai Lama's branch of Tibetan Buddhism, contains an enormous gold Maitreya Buddha, ancient religious scrolls, and thangka paintings, which aid meditation. —Tom Begley
2004 Holiday Destinations:
Bocas del Toro, Panama |
Schweitzer, Idaho | Darjeeling, India | Dublin, Ireland | St. Bart's | Versailles, France | Taipei, Taiwan | Cooperstown, New York | Frankfurt, Germany | San Francisco
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