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WHEN TO GO
In the neighborhoods of Esquilino and Testaccio, chances are you’ll be safe from summer’s stampede of tourists, but you’ll still have the heat to contend with. Avoid both by visiting in late fall or early spring.

WHERE TO STAY
Casa Howard Affordable design hotel a short taxi ride from Testaccio and Esquilino. 18 Vin Capo Le Casa, Piazza del Popolo; www.casahoward.com; 39-06/6992-4555; doubles from $186.

Radisson SAS Es Hotel 171 Via Filippo Turati; 39-06/444-841; www.rome.radissonsas.com; doubles from $132.

In Esquilino

WHERE TO EAT
Osteria degli Artisti 6 Via G Sommeiller; 39-06/701-8148; dinner for two $50.

Trattoria Monti 13 Via di San Vito; 39-06/446-6573; dinner for two $106.

WHAT TO DO
Chiesa di Santa Bibiana 154 Via Giovanni Giolitti (near Termini).

MAS store 11 Via dello Statuto (off Piazza Vittorio).

Piazza Vittorio Orchestra www.orchestradipiazzavittorio.it.

In Testaccio

WHERE TO EAT
Augustarello 98 Via Giovanni Branca; 39-06/574-6585; dinner for two $66.

Bottiglieria DOC 9 Via Beniamino Franklin; 39-06/574-4236; dinner for two $60.

Checchino dal 1887 30 Via di Monte Testaccio; 39-06/5740-6318; dinner for two $90.

Da Bucatino 84/86 Via Della Robbia Luca; 39-06/574-6886; dinner for two $65.

Da Felice 29 Via Mastro Giorgio; 39-06/574-6800; dinner for two $80.

Sora Rosa A typical "old man bar," with simple Italian fare. 7 Via Galileo Ferraris.

Volpetti deli 47 Via Marmorata; 39-06/574-2352.

WHAT TO DO
Cimitero Acattolico (Protestant Cemetery) 5 Via Caio Cestio; 39-06/574-1900.

Metaverso 38A Via di Monte Testaccio; 39-06/574-4712; www.metaverso.com.

Museo d’Arte Contemporanea di Roma (MACRO), Mattatoio A branch of Rome’s modern-art museum, housed in a former slaughterhouse on Monte Testaccio. Piazza Giustiniani.

Pyramid of Caius Cestius Piazza di Porta San Paolo.

Santa Maria Maggiore Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore.

Testaccio market One of Rome’s liveliest. Piazza Testaccio.

Zoobar 1 Via Bencivenga; 39-06/272-7995.

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