Nha Tho Street ("Church Street" in Vietnamese) is home to Hanoi's famed St. Joseph's Cathedral, but the neighborhood's boutiques are devoted to style. Fuel up with iced tea and Thai squid salad on the terrace of Church Street Bar & Grill (13 Nha Tho St., 84-4/928-6697), decorated in haute-Indochinois style: celadon walls, traditional rosewood chairs and tables, and opium beds. Then hit these five stores where Vietnamese craft meets Western design:
1 Mosaique 22 Nha Tho St., 84-4/928-6181. Alan Duong has gained a following for his brightly colored taffeta lamps and light fixtures modeled after lotus petals and birdcages.
2 Cherish Art House 8 Au Trieu St., 84-4/928-6380. A gallery-cum-boutique filled with framed colonial-era photographs, bamboo cages, antique tea sets, and Vietnamese furniture.
3 Seal 56 Au Trieu St., 84-4/928-6686. The emphasis is on the handmade, from lacquer boxes to ceramic bowls.
4 Pearl Ha 5 Nha Chung St., 84-4/928-6456. Organza dresses are ornamented with elaborate beading, sequins, and hand-painted designs.
5 Zinj 45B Ly Quoc Su St., 84-4/928-6092. A local favorite for home furnishings: red bamboo vases, Lao silk place mats, and a vast collection of chopsticks.