The opener at this nine-holer is a short, straight par four, bunkered amateurishly. The closing hole calls for a choke-down wedge to a green shaped like a breaking wave. At points along the fifth and sixth fairways, you may feel the need for protective headgear. But the demerits don’t add up to much, because this ancient town-owned links has a blessedness that defies conventional critique. The treeless, windswept headland it occupies offers 270 degrees of Atlantic vista. Rabbits appear on the fringes of Scotch broom and fescue bordering the fairways. The most intriguing holes are the second, which turns toward a distant crenellated oddity called the Jenny Lind Tower, and the sixth, with its steep falloff at the end of the landing area requiring punchy iron play from down- and sidehill lies.
There is a highly recommended museum of Truro’s early history at the entrance to the property, and of course the magnificent Cape Cod Light alongside the seventh tee. Take some time to visit one or both after the scores are added up.
South Highland Road, Truro.
Willard Small and J. H. McKinley, 1892.
Where to Stay
The Club at New Seabury Far and away the most ambitious master plan ever seen on Cape Cod, New Seabury is more than a thousand acres of speed bumps and tasteful signage. A thousand-plus homes line its curving inner roadways. Book a room in the Vineyard Reach complex and you’ll overlook the clubhouse and a half-dozen holes from the two layouts. The complex is an eyeful—three levels of decks, gables and chimney tops—but it’s well appointed and well located. The more generous suites feature four bedrooms and four and a half baths, with Ethan Allen furnishings and prime water views.
Great Neck Road South, Mashpee. Rooms: $240–$620. Suites: $720–$1,250.
Ocean Edge Resort & Club
Route 6A reveals a watercolor softness around many a bend, but nothing I’ve seen from any Cape road looks quite like the sweep of lawn beyond the fieldstone wall fronting Nickerson Mansion, your beacon for the Ocean Edge Resort. Inside it is an oak-lined reception area with a dark parson’s bench, leaded windows and a view of the distant bay. It produces a powerful effect, especially on a cool fall afternoon.
Be careful if booking your Ocean Edge accommodation online—not every homeowner has golf privileges. The issue is avoided, though, by going through the resort’s reservation office. Ask for 91 Bay Pines (Eastham House), a newly spiffed two-level home with views of dunes and water stretching all the way to Provincetown’s peninsular hook.
2907 Main Street, Brewster. Rooms: $200–$300. Suites: $400–$800.