Best of the Rest
Gullane No. 3 ( $47-$59; same contact as Gullane Nos. 1 and 2) is not quite the course its sisters are but has a Harry Colt pedigree and is great for an afternoon eighteen with a half-set of clubs. Right next door is Luffness New Golf Club ( $138; 011-44/1620-843-336, luffnessgolf.com), which is more of a traditional coat-and-tie club with a classic Tom Morris course that’s famous for its wonderful greens. Don’t leave North Berwick without playing the Glen Golf Club ( $69-$95; 011-44/1620-892-726, glengolfclub.co.uk), a James Braid and Ben Sayers design that perfectly complements the West Links at the other end of Beach Road. And for a taste of "real" Scottish golf, make the pilgrimage to the Old Golf Course at Musselburgh Golf Club ( $18-$20; 011-44/1316-655-438, musselburgholdlinks.co.uk), where you can rent hickory clubs and play the old-fashioned way. Believe it or not, previous to 1890, six Open Championships were played on this nine-hole course.
Recent prosperity in Edinburgh has created a demand for even more golf in East Lothian, and developers have been happy to oblige. The Dirleton and Fidra Links at Archerfield ( $138 for Archerfield House guests; archerfieldgolfclub.com, 011-44/1620-850-714), just outside of Gullane, are two championship parkland courses laid out since 2004 by David J. Russell around the historic Archerfield House (now refurbished as a hotel). Off the same entrance road, Tom Doak’s first course in Scotland, the Renaissance Club at Archerfield ( 011-44/1620-850-901 or 904-223-2140; trcaa.com), is scheduled to open in 2008; more parkland than links, it shares a border with Muirfield and may eventually have holes that play down to the water. A linksier experience is Craigielaw Golf Club ( $103-$148; 011-44/1875-870-800, craigielawgolfclub.com) in Aberlady, which abuts Kilspindie Golf Club and, apart from the one hole lined by houses, looks and plays as if it’s been there for a hundred years—no doubt a major reason that it hosts the annual World Hickory Championship.
Where to Stay
Golf Inn, Gullane; 011-44/1620-843-259, golfinn.co.uk. An elegant little hostelry, perfect for couples and small groups. Rooms: from $89.
Green Craig, Aberlady; 011-44/1875-870-301, greencraig.com. A splendid guesthouse right on Aberlady Bay and adjacent to Kilspindie Golf Club. Graciously and seamlessly run by Fleur Nisbet and crew, it’s an ideal place for groups of ten or so. Rooms: from $1,676 weekly per person.
Greywalls, Gullane; 011-44/1620-842-144, greywalls.co.uk. Some of the most elegant accommodations in the world. Very formal and expensive, but your wife will remember why she loves you. Rooms: from $473.
Macdonald Marine Hotel & Spa, North Berwick; 011-44/8704-008-129, macdonaldhotels.co.uk. Right on North Berwick West (ask for a room that looks out to sea). An eighty-three-room facility, it’s best suited for larger groups. Rooms: from $296.