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Palermo is easily reached by plane via Rome or Milan; direct flights are not available from the United States. Renting a car is recommended, as public transport is limited.
WHERE TO STAY
Palazzo Biscari Two apartments are available for rent; no maid service. DOUBLES FROM $95. 10 VIA MUSEO BISCARI, CATANIA; 39-095/715-2508; www.palazzobiscari.com
Don Arcangelo all'Olmo DOUBLES FROM $190. 16 VIA L'OLMO, CARRUBA; 39-095/964-729; www.donarcangelo.it
Relais Santa Anastasia This former abbey about 40 minutes outside Cefalù has been converted into a 28-room hotel. Wine is produced at the vineyards surrounding the property. DOUBLES FROM $255. CONTRADE SANTA ANASTASIA, CASTELBUONO; 39-092/167-2233; www.santa-anastasia-relais.it
Grand Hotel et Des Palmes Nineteenth-century hotel with 177 rooms. DOUBLES FROM $235. 398 VIA ROMA, PALERMO; 39-091/602-8111; www.thi.it
VILLA RENTALS/SPECIAL EVENTS
Bravo Holiday Residences Can book you into the various palazzi and arrange villa rentals and private tours. 237 LAFAYETTE ST., SUITE 5W, NEW YORK; 866/265-5516; www.hipvillas.com
Lanza & Baucina Sets up luxury special events in Europe, and is run by brothers Count Riccardo and Count Aleramo Lanza and their cousin Prince Antonio Licata di Baucina. 44-207/738-2222; www.lanzabaucina.com
WHERE TO EAT
Antica Focacceria San Francesco DINNER FOR TWO $76. 58 VIA ALESSANDRO PATERNOSTRO, PALERMO; 39-091/320-264
Santandrea The menu changes daily. DINNER FOR TWO $90. 4 PIAZZA SANT'ANDREA, PALERMO; 39-091/334-999
DON'T MISS
Palermo's two best outdoor markets are the Mercato Ballarò (between Piazza Ballarò and Piazza del Carmine) and the Mercato Capo (in Piazza Beati Paoli).
Associazione Figli d'Arte Cuticchio Puppet theater has a long tradition in Sicily. The best performances are staged by Mimmo Cuticchio, a third-generation master puppeteer. Call for showtimes. 95 VIA BARA ALL'OLIVELLA, PALERMO; 39-091/323-400
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