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Getting the Most out of Maui

KAANAPALI
If you like the idea of coming face-to-face with a Humboldt penguin in your hotel courtyard, the Hyatt Regency Maui (200 Nohea Kai Dr.; 800/233-1234 or 808/661-1234, fax 808/667-4498; doubles from $275) is your place. Despite its towering scale, the 809-room hotel has a calming atmosphere.

A meandering layout of bridges and ramps makes the 510-room Sheraton Maui (2605 Kaanapali Pkwy.; 800/782-9488 or 808/661-0031, fax 808/661-0458; doubles from $310) feel luxuriously private. Because it's closer to the ocean than the rest of Kaanapali's hotels, the property is blessed with constant breezes.

WAILEA AND ENVIRONS
After a day or two at the luxe 380-room Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea (3900 Wailea Alanui Dr.; 800/332-3442 or 808/874-8000, fax 808/874-2222; doubles from $305), you'll no doubt begin to feel relaxed. And where else can you look up from your tented chaise by the pool to see an Evian-toting attendant asking, "Care to be spritzed?"

Grand is the perfect word for the Grand Wailea Resort Hotel & Spa (3850 Wailea Alanui Dr.; 800/888-6100 or 808/875-1234, fax 808/874-2442; doubles from $380), with its Italianate palace of a lobby, cascading bougainvillea, and Botero sculptures. There's also an astounding water park with waterfalls and tunnels. The 50,000-square-foot spa is a fabulous retreat.

Much has been made of the Mediterranean-style Kea Lani Hotel Suites & Villas (4100 Wailea Alanui Dr.; 800/659-4100 or 808/875-4100, fax 808/875-1200; doubles from $295). You'll understand why, once you glimpse the resort's sprawling suites, which measure nearly 1,000 square feet.

On the southwestern reaches of the island, the 310-room Maui Prince Hotel (5400 Makena Alanui Dr., Makena; 800/321-6248 or 808/874-1111, fax 808/879-8763; doubles from $280) makes a subtle statement. It's an oasis for those who appreciate Japanese-style furnishings and delicate gardens.

UP-COUNTRY
Perfect for visitors who want to avoid the big-resort experience, the Kula Lodge (475 Kula Hwy., Kula; 800/233-1535 or 808/878-1535, fax 808/878-2518; doubles from $135) has five Swiss-style chalets with wood-burning stoves. At these elevations, nights can be cool. The décor of Silver Cloud Ranch (Thompson Rd., Keokea; 800/532-1111 or 808/878-6101, fax 808/878-2132; doubles from $85) falls somewhere between turn-of-the-century summer cottage and college dorm, with crazy touches such as a bright red plastic claw-foot tub in one room. The breakfast is the sort of hearty meal you'd hope to get from your grandmother.

HANA
Run by the owners of Hana Gardenland, the Hana Plantation Houses (21 Kelo Rd.; 800/228-4262 or 808/923-0772, fax 808/922-6068; doubles from $100, with a two-night minimum stay) is made up of nine tasteful villas scattered across the Hana region.

Signing in at Hotel Hana-Maui (360 Hana Hwy.; 800/321-4262 or 808/248-8211, fax 808/248-7202; doubles from $395) is a little like visiting a monastery—an expensive one with an atmosphere worthy of Buddhist meditation. The recently purchased property is receiving a physical overhaul, but its spirit remains the same.

On a five-acre flower farm, Hana's Tradewind Cottages (135 Alalele Place; 800/327-8097 or 808/248-8980, fax 808/248-7735; from $100) has two secluded hideaways, both with hot tubs on private decks.

LAHAINA
A night in a harbor-view room at the Lahaina Inn (127 Lahainaluna Rd.; 800/669-3444 or 808/661-0577, fax 808/667-9480; doubles from $99) is the best value on Maui. In the inn's 12 guest rooms, every detail has been attended to, from the polished oak floors and Oriental rugs to the interesting, pristine antiques and Japanese yukata robes.

If you want to stay in Lahaina but require a pool (or have children under 12—not allowed at Lahaina Inn), check out the Plantation Inn (174 Lahainaluna Rd.; 800/433-6815 or 808/667-9225, fax 808/667-9293; doubles from $135). The 19 rooms are furnished in an eclectic—and not altogether pleasing—mix of styles. But the breakfast of French toast is superb, provided by the excellent restaurant Gerard's.

WHERE TO SHOP

MOST STYLISH FINDS
hibiscus-print backpacks ABC Stores (eight locations throughout Maui; 808/591-2550 or www.abcstores.com). They're not too sturdy, but the design is stunning. hula-girl costumes ABC Stores. Complete with coconut tops and shell leis. real flower leis Safeway (1221 Honoapiilani Hwy., Lahaina; $9 each). aloha handbags Honolua Surf Co. (845 Front St., Lahaina, 808/661-8848; 2411 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 808/874-0999; www.honoluasurfco.com). kids' sarongs Tropical Kids (658 Front St., Space 147, Wharf Cinema Center, Lahaina; 808/661-1356). Plus sundresses, handmade toys, and storybooks with local tales.

VINTAGE ALOHA SHIRTS
Hawaiian-print shirts are a fusion of Western and Asian cultures. Their forerunner is the "thousand-mile shirt," a heavy work shirt once worn by pioneers and missionaries. Polynesian motifs were added, but the term aloha shirt wasn't coined until Ellery J. Chun decided to sell the garment—up to that time homemade or sold in small numbers at boutiques—in his store in 1936. Covetable early versions can cost as much as $1,000. Some vintage labels to look for: Aloha, the Kahala, Royal Hawaiian, Paradise Hawaii, Surfriders Sportswear. By the mid-1940's, Hawaiian shirts tended to be made of rayon, a trend that lasted through the fifties and returned in the 1970's. Shirts from the seventies to the present are scorned by true collectors. where to buy The best aloha shirts are at Cuckoo for Coconuts (1158 Makawao Ave., Makawao; 808/573-6887) and Paia Trading Co. (106 Hana Hwy., Paia; 808/579-9472). For polyester prints from the mid-seventies through the eighties, head to Malice in Wonderland (10 Market St., Wailuku; 808/244-9315).

BEST GALLERIES
Discover the lost art of Hawaiian ei-ei vine weaving and find translucent Norfolk pine bowls by Ron Kent at Hana Coast Gallery (Hotel Hana-Maui, Hana; 808/248-8636), by far the best place on Maui for fine art and Hawaiian crafts. Kent's bowls are in the permanent collection at the Louvre, the Met, and the Vatican Museum. The gallery also carries tomorrow's Ron Kent, J. Kelly Dunn (his prices begin at $450, compared to $2,300 for Kent's smallest bowl). For Hawaiian landscape paintings and Kay Sattler's fired clay vases, go to Village Galleries (120 Dickenson St., Lahaina; 808/661-4402), which also has a store at the Ritz-Carlton. Viewpoints Gallery (3520 Baldwin Ave., Suite 101, Makawao; 808/572-5979) represents Denise Champion, who does Polaroid transfers of flowers.

BASKET AS ART
Niu Creation's Mika and Charlene Villaren (808/242-8167) sell their handwoven coconut palm-leaf baskets at Maui Tropical Plantations and, on Friday mornings, in the lower courtyard of the Four Seasons Maui at Wailea. The baskets are beautiful to look at, but they can be put in the microwave, used as stovetop steamers, and washed with soap and water.

ASIAN ANTIQUES
You'll find Maui's finest antiques on Market Street in the small plantation settlers' town—now more a ghost town—of Wailuku. Peruse the collections of T'ang Dynasty ceramic figurines, calligraphy scrolls, Japanese stone rubbings, and Chinese vases at Brown-Kobayashi (160A N. Market St.; 808/242-0804). shopper's lunch Enjoy the blackened mahimahi with papaya salsa and steamed rice ($5.95) or the daily plate-lunch special ($5.50) at Café O'Lei (2051 Main St.; 808/244-6816).

MAKAWAO
This Hawaiian cowboy town has been nearly taken over by ex-Californians who discovered the mellow life, and merchants who transformed many of the Western-style wooden buildings into boutiques. The paniolo soul of the town is still present at the rodeo held regularly on the outskirts of town, and at the general store, which sells chewing tobacco and pickled eggs. There's plenty of aloha wear and trinkets behind all the dolled-up storefronts on the main street, Baldwin Avenue. Here, the best finds: hawaiian-print wrapping paper Maui Hands (No. 3620; 808/572-5194). hand-blown glass Hot Island Glass (No. 3620; 808/572-4527). custom hunting rifles Base Camp (No. 3619; 808/573-2267). hula-girl travel alarm clocks Hurricane (No. 3639; 808/572-5067). shopper's lunch Don't miss the fajitas with shrimp or mahimahi at Polli's Mexican Restaurant (1202 Makawao Ave.; 808/572-7808).

PAIA
Less quaint but more lively than Makawao, Paia marks the beginning of the Hana Highway. Standouts: maui-made swimsuits Maui Girl (12 Baldwin Ave.; 808/579-9266) kids' ukuleles Plantation Store (27 Baldwin Ave.; 808/579-8601). hawaiiana and collectibles Paia Trading Co. (106 Hana Hwy; 808/579-9472). hawaiian-print halter tops and baby blankets Biasa Rose Boutique (104 Hana Hwy; 808/579-8602). shopper's lunch Try the fish tacos at hip, laid-back Milagros Food Co. (3 Baldwin Ave.; 808/579-8755), also known for frozen cocktails.

HAUTE CULTURE

With Ulalena, a show about Hawaiian mythology and history, the new Maui Myth & Magic Theatre (878 Front St., Lahaina; 808/661-9913) proves there's life beyond the luau. In one act, an acrobat gives the illusion she is a lizard swimming up a waterfall that cascades from the rafters to the stage. More than 20 of the islands' most talented musicians, actors, and directors—along with ARRA Montreal, developer of the original Cirque de Soleil—banded together to create the spectacular production.

RAINY-DAY MAUI

No need for disappointment. You can whale-watch indoors at the Maui Ocean Center (192 Maalaea Rd., Maalaea; 808/270-7000). The largest tropical aquarium in the Western Hemisphere has a 750,000-gallon tank with deepwater species, from Humu Humu Nuku Nuku Apuaa (triggerfish to you and me) to tiger sharks.

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