This former haven for dive bars has become ground zero for high-end chefs with casual-bistro dreams—and the trend has spread across the 11th Arrondissement. At Au Passage (1 bis Passage St.-Sébastien; lunch for two $72), dishes bear the hallmarks of chef James Henry, who trained at Spring restaurant—simple ingredients innovatively combined, as in the sous vide trout with grated horseradish. The market-driven options at La Cave de L’Insolite (30 Rue de la Folie Méricourt; dinner for two $65), a natural-wine bar, range from traditional bistro (pot roast) to nouveau (prawn ravioli with a foamy bisque). Be patient; they’re perennially understaffed. Book far ahead at Septime (80 Rue de Charonne; dinner for two $143), where a former chef at L’Arpège is creating impeccable five-course tasting menus. A recent highlight: squid a la plancha with radish and black-olive juice. All the way out by Père Lachaise cemetery, Le Sot l’Y Laisse (pictured; 70 Rue Alexandre Dumas; lunch for two $110) has been revived by a Paul Bocuse–trained cook from Osaka who laces a classic French menu (pied de porc; poulet rôti) with Japanese flourishes (sashimi; tuna belly with wasabi pesto).