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European Markets

Pascal Barbot, chef at L'Astrance.

• CHEESE SHOP Laurent Dubois 2 Rue de Lourmel, 15th Arr.; 33-1/45-78-70-58. Owner Dubois is a meilleur ouvrier de France, decorated for his dedication to affinage—the art of cheese ripening and aging. "The best in Paris for Roquefort." DON'T MISS Vacherin Mont d'Or, a foot-wide round of gooey raw-cow's-milk cheese bound by a band of spruce bark.

• MARKET Marché Cours de la Reine Ave. du Président-Wilson, 16th Arr. Open-air market popular for spectacular produce on a pretty, tree-lined boulevard. "I love the market, especially in spring, with all the young carrots—yellow ones, orange ones, round red ones." DON'T MISS The large and incredibly juicy Burlat cherries.

• GOURMET SHOP Pietrement-Lambret 58 Rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau, First Arr.; 33-1/42-33-30-50. This tiny boutique specializes in offerings from the Lot Valley, including duck and goose products such as confit and foie gras. Many meats are sold in tins, so you won't have a problem bringing them back through customs. DON'T MISS Cassoulet campagnard: a savory stew of white beans, duck, goose, and pork.

• BOULANGERIE Jean-Luc Poujauran 20 Rue Jean-Nicot, Seventh Arr.; 33-1/47-05-80-88. Turn-of-the-last-century Left Bank bakery where Poujauran creates organic breads and buttery, flaky croissants. "It's a very small shop, and there are always twenty people waiting in line." DON'T MISS Cannelés—small, chewy, caramelized vanilla cakes, traditional in Bordeaux.

• PÂTISSERIE Pierre Hermé 72 Rue Bonaparte, Sixth Arr.; 33-1/43-54-47-77. This diminutive brown-and-pink boutique, off a busy shopping stretch of Rue Jacob in Saint-Germain, draws droves of passionate chocoholics who line up for Hermé's artful petits fours, 10 varieties of macaroons, and decadent truffles. Hermé, a fourth-generation baker who was trained by Gaston Lenôtre at the age of 14, was the chief pastry chef at Fauchon and consulted at Ladurée before setting off on his own in 2001. "Hermé made macarons fashionable in Paris. He's one of the best pâtissiers in the city." DON'T MISS Passion fruit-and-milk chocolate ganache macaroons.

COOKBOOK SHOP Librairie Gourmande More than 8,000 selections fill this charming shop. Most are in French, though English-language books are also available.
4 RUE DANTE, FIFTH ARR.; 33-1/43-54-37-27

Mathias Dahlgren, chef, Bon Lloc, and author of the cookbook Bon Lloc.

• MARKET Östermalmshallen 31 Nybrogatan. Stockholm's central, covered market, which carries not only pristine shrimp and gleaming salmon but also traditional Swedish breads, cheeses, meats, and prepared foods. "It's beautiful and very Swedish." DON'T MISS Kalix löjrom—high-quality caviar from the löja fish, found off the coast of northern Sweden.

• ETHNIC MARKET Hötorgshallen Hötorgshallen; www.hotorgshallen.se/english/ett_eng.htm. Indoor market where Dahlgren, winner of the prestigious Bocuse d'Or, buys his ingredients from around the globe: he believes that ethnic influences are what contemporary Swedish cooking is all about. "They have everything from everywhere—the Middle East, India, Asia, eastern and southern Europe." DON'T MISS Tubes of Moroccan harissa (hot pepper sauce).

• ORGANIC PRODUCTS Rosendals Trädgård 12 Rosendalsterrassen; 46-8/5458-1270. A produce market/bakery/gourmet shop/café bordered by an organic garden that supplies all the vegetables, fruits, herbs, and flowers sold there. "Whatever you buy is wonderful. They have great honey and marmalade, and a nice café from March through December." DON'T MISS Stone oven-baked bread.

• FOOD HALL NK Saluhall 18-20 Hamngatan; 46-8/762-8000; www.nk.se/english. On the lower ground floor of the department store NK (pronounced "enn-koh," for Nordiska Kompaniet), the Saluhall features 10,000 products in a spacious, immaculate emporium. Traditional Swedish treats include herring, salmon, moose, jellied veal, Våsterbotten cheese, elderberries, and wild raspberries. DON'T MISS Vacuum-packed smoked reindeer meat.

• FIKA Vete-Katten 55 Kungsgatan; 46-8/208-405. One of the city's oldest fika (sweet snack) houses. Walk in and you'll swoon from the smell of cookies baking. Buy from the counter, or take a seat and enjoy your desserts with coffee. "Just as the Spanish have tapas, we do fika: eating sweet things between meals. Maybe it's because it's very cold here and we need the sugar." DON'T MISS Semla—a cardamom bun with almond filling, served with whipped cream.

COOKBOOK SHOP NK Bokhandel On the fourth floor of Stockholm's most food-focused department store, featuring an impressive array of Swedish titles.
18-20 HAMNGATAN; 46-8/762-8000

LESLIE BRENNER is the acting food editor of the Los Angeles Times.


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