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European Markets

Nigella Lawson, author of Forever Summer and host of her own show by the same title on the Style Network.

• MARKET Borough Market 8 Southwark St.; 44-207/407-1002; www.boroughmarket.org.uk. The only wholesale and retail market left in central London, it dates back to Roman times. "It's the scene of Little Dorrit; you can walk around all these Dickensian streets. There's wonderful fish, incredibly good bacon, and Brindisa, a stall where you'll find fabulous Spanish ham and delicacies." DON'T MISS Decorated sugar cookies from Konditor & Cook.

• GOURMET SHOP Villandry 170 Great Portland St.; 44-207/631-3131; www.villandry.com. A food shop that fronts a restaurant of the same name; it has charcuterie and cheese counters, coffee, and French yogurts and creams. "A bit like an English version of Dean & DeLuca in New York. You go in for two things and come out with twenty, having spent a week's salary." DON'T MISS Cold-smoked trout from the Woodcock Smokery in County Cork.

• FOOD HALL Selfridges 400 Oxford St.; 44-8708/377-377; www.selfridges.co.uk. The 1,800-square-foot space includes a sushi bar, an oyster bar, two new restaurants, and an extensive array of smoked fish, cheeses, caviar, and confections. Recently renovated and expanded, it received the Royal Warrant for Food, meaning it can deliver to Buckingham Palace. DON'T MISS Montgomery Moore dark chocolate buttons. "They're seductively good."

• SPICES The Spice Shop 1 Blenheim Crescent; 44-207/221-4448; www.thespiceshop.co.uk. Founded as a stall on Portobello Road, this store is stocked with blue poppy seeds, dried Iranian limes, amchur (mango) powder, and organic Somalian cumin. DON'T MISS Nigella Lawson Zahtar Mix: sumac, vanilla pods, cinnamon quills, and ras el hanout (Moroccan spice blend).

COOKBOOK SHOP Books for Cooks A destination for food lovers in London, who come in not only to browse among the 8,000-plus titles but to take cooking classes at the school upstairs.
4 BLENHEIM CRESCENT, NOTTING HILL 44-207/221-1992 www.booksforcooks.com

Jo Bettoja, owner of Lo Scaldavivande cooking school and author of In a Roman Kitchen.

• MARKET Mercato di Via del Lavatore Near the Trevi Fountain. An open-air mercato where Bettoja brings her students to shop for produce. "The people who work there have a dry sense of humor and big hearts. They can find anything for you, and they'll even share their recipes." DON'T MISS Fragolini di bosco—wild strawberries.

• BAKERY Giovanni Riposati 8 Via delle Muratte; 39-06/679-2866. Thought to be the oldest bakery in Rome, in the centro storico. "I buy all kinds of bread at Riposati. Rosette, rolls shaped like little flowers; sciapo, which is a loaf bread with no salt; brown peasant bread; grissini [breadsticks] with sesame seeds." DON'T MISS The thin-crust Roman white pizza.

• GOURMET SHOP Avenati 44 Via Milano; 39-06/488-2681. A cheese store known for its burrata and nodino from Puglia (as well as buffalo mozzarellas from Campania), it also has an extensive selection of hams, salamis, cured meats, artisanal dried pastas, olives, preserved anchovies, bottarga (dried mullet or tuna roe), and smoked fish. DON'T MISS Formaggio di fossa, a rare cheese made from sheep's and cow's milk and aged underground.

• WINESHOP Trimani 20 Via Goito; 39-06/446-9661. Rome's best-known enoteca, with an outstanding array of Italian wines, specializing in artisanal producers; next door is Trimani II Wine Bar. DON'T MISS Il Dominio di Bagnoli grappa, bottled in Padua by Bettoja's nephew.

• CHOCOLATIER Moriondo e Gariglio 21-22 Via del Piè di Marmo; 39-06/699-0856. With a crimson interior that looks like an old-fashioned confectioner's, this shop dates from the mid 1800's, when it was opened in Turin by pastry masters Moriondo and Gariglio. Today Attilio Proietti packs the violet-flavored or rum-filled chocolates in the same pretty red boxes that have been used here for more than a century. DON'T MISS Tronchette—bittersweet, soft little chocolates shaped like tree trunks.

COOKBOOK SHOP Enoculinaria Within the popular 'Gusto gastronomic complex is a bookshop that stocks 3,000 titles in Italian, English, French, German, and Spanish.


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