Day 3: Feldkirch to Vals (77 miles)
Drive south down Route 28 (through Liechtenstein) and back into Switzerland toward the Alpine town of Maienfeld, where the fictional character Heidi grew up. While Heididorf (Heidi’s Village) may be a touch kitschy, it’s definitely worth exploring the well-marked mountain paths where, according to the story, she and Peter used to play. Less known to travelers is the area’s Pinot Noir, made by more than 130 vintners; stop at Kunz-Keller (2 Flascherstrasse, Maienfeld; 41-81/330-1555) and pick up a couple of bottles to sample later. Zigzag your way up the mountain on Grosswiesstrasse Hintergasse, then turn left toward the pint-size town of St. Margrethenberg. The hilltop farmhouse restaurant Buura-Beizli (7313 St. Margrethenberg; 41-81/302-2815; lunch for two $40), set against a backdrop of rolling hills and bleating goats, serves organic food from its farm. Try the veal goulash and barley soup with carrots and bacon.