Driving: Bear Necessity

The Itinerary

In northern British Columbia, distances between towns--and gas stations--are long; fill your tank every chance you get. Hotel options are listed below, but if you're comfortable pitching a tent, there are good provincial campgrounds along the way.

DAY 1 From Prince George, head northeast on Highway 97. Stop at Pine Pass for the first great mountain view, and then spend the night in Fort St. John at the Quality Inn Northern Grand (9830 100th Ave.; 800/663-8312 or 250/787-0521; www.choicehotels.ca; doubles from $72).

DAY 2 Drive north on Highway 97 (now called the Alaska Highway) and grab a hearty trucker's lunch at Mae's Kitchen (Mile 147, Alaska Hwy., Pink Mountain; 250/772-3215; lunch for two $10); then continue north to Stone Mountain Provincial Park. At the entrance, take a short hike on the gentle Flower Springs Trail, or on the strenuous Summit Peak Trail for stupendous views. Drive to Toad River and stay over at the Toad River Lodge (Mile 422, Alaska Hwy.; 250/232-5401; www.toadriverlodge.com; doubles from $32).

DAY 3 Continue on the Alaska Highway to Muncho Lake Provincial Park, and have lunch at the Northern Rockies Lodge (Mile 462, Alaska Hwy.; 250/776-3481; lunch for two $17). Back on the Alaska Highway, stop to luxuriate in the steaming water at Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park. In Watson Lake, Yukon Territory, brush up on the aurora borealis at the Northern Lights Centre (819 Frank Trail; 867/536-7827; www.northernlightscentre.ca), and spend the night at the rustic Watson Lake Hotel (Ninth St.; 867/536-7781; doubles from $60).

DAY 4 Head north on the Alaska Highway for 14 miles, then turn south on the Stewart-Cassiar Highway (Route 37) to Eddontenajon Lake. Check in at the Red Goat Lodge (Cassiar Hwy.; 250/234-3261; doubles from $56) and rent a canoe to paddle the lake. Have dinner just down the road at the Tatogga Lake Resort (Cassiar Hwy., Iskut; 250/234-3526; dinner for two $20).

DAY 5 Drive south on the Stewart-Cassiar Highway to Meziadin Junction; then head west on 37A to the twin border towns of Stewart, British Columbia, and Hyder, Alaska. Turn right at the end of Hyder's Main Street and follow the gravel road to the Fish Creek viewing platform to watch bears feasting on salmon. Continue for 11 more miles to take in spectacular views of the Salmon Glacier. Go back to Stewart for a salmon dinner of your own at the Bitter Creek CafŽ (313 Fifth Ave.; 250/636-2166; dinner for two $33) and stay at the King Edward Hotel (405 Fifth Ave.; 250/636-2244; www.kingedwardhotel.com; doubles from $46).

DAY 6 Backtrack east on Route 37A to Meziadin Junction, before driving south on the Stewart-Cassiar Highway to Kitwanga. Head east on Highway 16 to Smithers, and spend the night at the Stork Nest Inn (1485 Main St.; 250/847-3831; www.storknestinn.com; doubles from $47). DAY 7 Continue east on Highway 16 and stop for a hike in Babine Mountains Provincial Park. Follow Highway 16 east back to Prince George.