WALES TRAILS
Stunning though they are, the golf courses of Wales only hint at the "headlands, tongues, and promontory shapes" that lace the Cymric landscape. But you can only take in so much of it by car. The Lôn Las Cymru, or Welsh National Cycle Route, covers 288 miles, from Holyhead in the north to Chepstow and Cardiff in the south. Developed by Sustrans--a civil engineering charity dedicated to "sustainable transport" throughout the U.K.--the route is accessible by foot or bicycle and weaves along abandoned railway lines, country tracks and sleepy back roads, avoiding many of the steep inclines and, in most cases, contact with motor vehicles. Although impractical for those toting clubs, the trails pass a number of courses that have rentals. For more information, as well as detailed maps, log on to www.sustrans.org.uk, or call 011-44-117-926-8893.
WOOSIE'S WALES
Born just across the English border in Owestry, Ian Woosnam remains the only Welshman ever to
win a major championship. The 1991 Masters champion and a member of eight Ryder Cup teams, "Woosie"
cut his teeth at Llanmynech Golf Club, fourteen miles from his parents' farm. Like the five-foot-five
Woosie, the 6,114-yard course makes up in toughness what it lacks in size. "It was a good test of
golf," says Woosnam, who first played here at the age of seven. "You learn to play in strong winds and
get used to all kinds of lies and stances --uphill, downhill and sideways." Llanmynech sits atop a
promontory, and according to Woosnam, "before the county boundaries changed, you could see seven
counties from one point." Included in the view: part of Offa's Dyke, the ancient, 177-mile
fortification that still defines most of the English-Welsh border. The course itself is an anomaly:
Only fifteen holes are Welsh; holes five and six lie in England; and on the par-four fourth, says
Woosie, "you tee off in Walesand putt out in England." Call 011-44-1691-830983.*
LOOK OUT FOR NUMBER ONE
At first glance, the opening hole at Royal Porthcawl is a seemingly innocuous 326-yard par four that
runs along the coast. However, the pot bunkers and rough will snare you unless you adhere to extreme
calculation and caution with each shot.
Off the tee, leave the head cover on your driver.Instead, use a long iron or fairway wood to position your shot to the left side of the fairway. This placement will open the entrance to the green.
From here, the best strategy is to pitch precisely to the right side of the green, which cants right to left and tends to shed most balls that land left of center.
The extremely exposed, undulating and quick putting surface poses great difficulty even for the silkiest of touches. So take a few extra seconds to consider break and pace. A two-putt here is a thrilling way to start.
--PETER EVANS,
Head Professional,
Royal Porthcawl Golf Club
WHERE TO PLAY
- Aberdovey Golf Club,
Aberdovey, Gwynedd
par/yardage: 71, 6,445
architect: James Braid
phone: 011-44-1654-767210 - Aberystwyth Golf Club,
Bryn y Mor, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion
par/yardage: 70, 6,110
architect: Harry Vardon
phone: 011-44-1970-615104 - Cardigan Golf Club,
Gwbert-on-Sea,Cardigan
par/yardage: 72, 6,687
architect: Fred Hawtree
phone: 011-44-1293-621775 - Celtic Manor Resort,
Roman Road/Wentwood Hills/Coldra Woods courses, Catsash Rd., Coldra Woods, Newport
par/yardage:69, 6,685
(Roman Road); 72, 7,400
(Wentwood Hills); 59, 4,001 (Coldra Woods)
architect: Robert Trent Jones
phone: 011-44-1633-413000 - Royal Porthcawl Golf Club,
Rest Bay,Porthcawl, Mid-Clamoirgan
par/yardage: 72, 6,740
architects: Henry Colt and Tom Simpson
phone: 011-44-1656-773702 - Royal St. David's Golf Club,
Harlech Gwynedd
par/yardage:69, 6,571
architect: The Honorable Harold Finch-Hatton
phone: 011-44-1766-780361 - St.Pierre's Old course,
St. Pierre Park, Chepstow
par/yardage: 71, 6,941
architect: Ken Cotton
phone: 011-44-1291-625261
WHERE TO STAY
- The Abbey Hotel,
Llanthony (near Aberga-venny),
Monmouthshire,
011-44-1873-890487 - Conrah Country House Hotel,
Rhydgaled, Chancery,
Aberystwyth,
011-44-1970-617941 - Llantsanffraed Court Country House Hotel,
Llanvihangel Gobion (near Abergavenny),
Monmouthshire,
011-44-1873-840678 - Manor House Hotel,
Main St., Fishguard,
Pembrokeshire,
011-44-1348-873260
WHERE TO DINE
With the possible exception of rarebit, Welsh cuisine doesn't even approach the sophistication of, say, English fare. The hotels have adequate restaurants. Those listed here are fine. Eat elsewhere at your peril.
- Afon Gwy,
28 Bridge St., Chepstow,
011-44-1291-620158 - Nag's Head Inn,
4-6 Twyn Square, Usk, Gwent,
011-44-1291-672820 - Walnut Tree Inn,
Llandewi Sgyrrid (north of Abergavenny),
011-44-1873-852797 - Yr Ogof Bistro,
High St., Harlech,
011-44-1766-780888
WHILE YOU'RE THERE
- Dylan Thomas Boathouse,
Dylan's Walk, Laugharne,
011-44-1994-427420 - Gwent Rural Life Museum, New Market St., Usk,
011-44-1291-673777 - Harlech Castle,
Harlech,
011-44-1766-780552 - Llanthony Priory,
Llanthony - Offa's Dyke Association,
West St., Knighton,
011-44-1547-528753 - Tintern Abbey,
Tintern (north of Chepstow),
011-44-1291-689251 - White Castle
(just north of Llantilio Crossenny)
ITINERARY
DAY ONE:
Play St. Pierre, host of the 1996 Solheim Cup. Lunch at
Nag's Head Inn, in Usk, and visit the Gwent Rural Life Museum here. Drive north to
White Castle and Llanthony Priory. Eat at Llantsanffraed Court Country House
Hotel.
DAY TWO:
Try the new Wentwood Hills course at Celtic Manor
Resort. This layout will host this year's Wales Open and is bidding for the 2009 Ryder Cup. See
where Wordsworth got his inspiration at Tintern Abbey. Dine at Walnut Tree Inn (be sure
to make reservations a week in advance).
DAY THREE:
Play Royal Porthcawl. Drive to the Dylan Thomas
Boathouse, in Laugharne. Continue north. Have dinner at the Manor House Hotel.
DAY FOUR:
Play Cardigan Golf Club. Stop in at the Cardigan
Island Coastal Farm Park nearby for a look at some domestic animals and fur seals on the coast.
Drive north to Conrah Country House Hotel and have a lovely dinner.
DAY FIVE:
Play Aberystwyth. Take the Vale of Rheidol
Railway, a narrow-gauge steam train that wends among crags of rock. At the end of the line, take a
look at the Devil's Bridge, which is actually three bridges that cross the stunning Mynach
Falls.
DAY SIX:
Play Royal St. David's and try to tame what many
consider the toughest back nine in the United Kingdom. Visit Harlech Castle, which towers above
the course, and have lunch nearby at Yr Ogof, just to see if you can pronounce it.
DAY SEVEN:
Play Aberdovey in the morning. Play Aberdovey again in the afternoon. Yes, it's that enjoyable.
