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DON'T MISS: Essential Dishes

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CASADO Literally, "married man." The most typical tico dish is a plate of gallo pinto (rice and beans), cabbage salad, fried plantains, fried eggs, and either fish, meat, or chicken. Get it at Chubasco (Carretera al Volcán Poás, Alajuela; 011-506/482-2069; lunch for two $10).

JUGO DE CAÑA Freshly pressed sugar-cane juice is sold from the back of trucks near the cane fields of the central valley.

CHICHARRONES Just-made crackling pork rinds, sold at any bus depot or soda. Ticos on road trips carry little jars of hot sauce and limes to sprinkle and squeeze over this local snack food.

TRES LECHES Rich enough to satisfy any sweet tooth, this cake is saturated with condensed milk and topped with sugary meringue. Hotel Grano de Oro, in San José, makes a sinful version.

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