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Indigenous crafts have almost disappeared from Costa Rica. But in the village of Guaitil, 18 miles north of the city of Nicoya, you can watch ceramists who have maintained the pottery tradition at work. In Islita, the 17 members of the Artisans of Papaturras collective create sinuous, elegant driftwood mirrors that are sold for less than $25 each in the Hotel Punta Islita gift shop.
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