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High season in northern Thailand runs from October through February, when days are cool and dry and nights can be chilly; summer is humid and hot, with more rain. From North America, a good time-saving option is to fly to Hong Kong on Cathay Pacific (nonstop from New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, or Vancouver), then take a three-hour flight to Chiang Mai. On May 1, Thai Airways begins nonstop service between New York and Bangkok; from the capital it's a one-hour flight to Chiang Mai.
WHERE TO STAY
Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai
DOUBLES FROM $450. 51/4 MOO 1, CHIANG MAI-SANKAMPAENG RD.; 800/526-6566 OR 66-53/888-888; www.mandarinoriental.com
Four Seasons Chiang Mai
DOUBLES FROM $375. MAE RIM-SAMOENG OLD RD.; 800/332-3442 OR 66-53/298-181; www.fourseasons.com
Rachamankha Hotel
DOUBLES FROM $337. 6 RACHAMANKHA 9; 66-53/904-111; www.rachamankha.com
WHERE TO EAT
Le Grand Lanna
Chiang Mai's best and poshest, unfolding over a series of candlelit dining rooms and teakwood terraces at Dhara Dhevi and offering inventive takes on Lanna cuisine. DINNER FOR TWO $31. 66-53/888-888
Food for You
A family home open on weekends only, for shockingly good—and inexpensive—Thai dinners. The seafood is extraordinary; the vibe is exclusive, yet informal. Reservations essential. DINNER FOR TWO $20. 28 MOO 5, CHIANG MAI-DOISAKET RD., SANSAI; 66-53/491-604
The House
Danish designer Hans Christensen runs the city's most fashionable gathering spot, in an impeccable Indochine setting. Skip the fusion food upstairs and come for drinks and tapas at the wine bar. 199 MOONMUANG RD.; 66-53/419-011
Daalaaba
This well-designed bar and restaurant outside the city center rivals the House for the beau monde's devotion. 113 BUMRUNGRAJ RD.; 66-53/242-491
WHERE TO SHOP
Living Space
Jennifer Dyson's well-curated shop, in a teakwood house, has a superior collection of Thai and imported lacquer pieces, celadon ware, textiles, and tabletop items, in traditional and cutting-edge designs. 276-278 THAPHAE RD.; 66-53/874-156; www.livingspacedesigns.com
Ginger
Women's clothes, Asian antiques, costume jewelry, embroidered handbags. 199 MOONMUANG RD.; 66-53/419-014
La Luna Gallery
Sommai Lumdual's eclectic gallery opened last year along the Ping River, and shows a wide range of painters and photographers from northern Thailand, Vietnam, Burma, Malaysia, and the Philippines. 190 CHAROENRAT RD.; 66-53/306-678; www.lalunagallery.com
Wit's Collection
Parisian artist Fabienne Jouvin sells her fresh, delightfully whimsical ceramics and tableware at this terrific boutique; her work graces many a stylish expat's home. APT. F, 1 NIMMANHAEMIN RD.; 66-53/217-544
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