Plus, His Other Favorites...
Market: Olvera loves to eat in the city’s many outdoor markets like La Merced (180 Rosario; no phone; snacks for two $3). “I go on Saturdays for quesadillas with zucchini blossoms, Oaxacan cheese, and epazote in a blue-corn tortilla.”
Sweet Treat: When Olvera craves ice cream, he heads to Roxy (161 Tamaulipas; 52-55/5256-1854; dessert for two $4) for his favorite flavor: zapote negro (made from native black persimmon).
Baked Goods: Italian restaurant and bakery Rosetta (bread for two $4) has an excellent foccacia with raisins, while El Cardenal (23 Palma; 52-55/5521-8815; pastries for two $7) makes some of the best traditional sweet pastries (conchas, cuernos) and cinnamon-laced hot chocolate.
Housewares: Maggie Galton (346 Hegel; 52-55/5255-2230, by appointment) sells beautiful ceramic molcajetes (mortar and pestle) and guajes (gourd pots) that incorporate elements of indigenous and modern design.