London chef Fergus Henderson—who revived “nose-to-tail” cooking at his St. John restaurant—just debuted the 15-room St. John Hotel (doubles from $320), in the West End. We asked for his top local haunts across the city.
Cock Tavern: This subterranean den at Smithfield Market opens at 6 a.m. to feed a ravenous crowd of butchers and night traders. The kitchen is known for its deviled lamb’s kidneys. Breakfast for two $19.
Golden Heart: Run by Sandra Esqulant since 1979, the Shoreditch tavern has an affectionate house terrier and a loyal clientele. “Sandra is a force of nature,” Henderson says. “She’ll drop some port into your pint of Guinness—that really sorts you out.” Drinks for two $10.
The Hope: This spot is a workaday hole-in-the-wall. Despite or maybe because of that, Henderson loves the place. “They have a very good hot sausage with English mustard.” Lunch for two $36.
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