Chef Fergus Henderson’s Favorite London Restaurants

Chef Fergus Henderson’s Favorite London Restaurants

Fergus Henderson, St. John Hotel, London
Laurie Fletcher
Laurie Fletcher
Laurie Fletcher
Chef Fergus Henderson dishes on his top London restaurants.

London chef Fergus Henderson—who revived “nose-to-tail” cooking at his St. John restaurant—just debuted the 15-room St. John Hotel (doubles from $320), in the West End. We asked for his top local haunts across the city.

Cock Tavern: This subterranean den at Smithfield Market opens at 6 a.m. to feed a ravenous crowd of butchers and night traders. The kitchen is known for its deviled lamb’s kidneys. Breakfast for two $19.

Golden Heart: Run by Sandra Esqulant since 1979, the Shoreditch tavern has an affectionate house terrier and a loyal clientele. “Sandra is a force of nature,” Henderson says. “She’ll drop some port into your pint of Guinness—that really sorts you out.” Drinks for two $10.

The Hope: This spot is a workaday hole-in-the-wall. Despite or maybe because of that, Henderson loves the place. “They have a very good hot sausage with English mustard.” Lunch for two $36.

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