WHERE TO EAT
Moonshine
Neighborhood transplant Chris Storey has extended the bootlegging theme of this 1 1/2-year-old bar and restaurant to the turn-tabling, which features local DJ's mixing samples in the tradition of Chicago's native house-music scene.
Dinner for two $35
1824 W. Division St.; 773/862-8686
Leo's Lunchroom
Polish-born founder Leo Tybor envisioned an end-of-the-day respite for factory workers when he founded this diner in 1947, but in 1992, his successors began drawing artists with healthier, less grimy fare. When an imminent sale was announced this year, regulars demanded to know the fate of the beloved Georgia Rueben (a grilled sandwich on rye with smoked turkey and swiss cheese, coleslaw, and thousand island dressing). At last notice, the new owners plan to keep it, along with the kitschy interior design (check out the vintage postcards on the wall).
Lunch for two $18
1809 W. Division St.; 773/276-6509
Green Ginger
Chicago-style fusion has invaded owner Chen Shing Lin's coastal-Chinese menu, which now includes Asian cannoli, wasabi mashed potatoes, tempura chocolate cake, and Hong Kong–style bubble tea.
Dinner for two $40
2050 W. Division St.; 773/486-6700
Milk & Honey Café
The sandwiches may feature such tony building blocks as arugula and lemon-caper sauce, but the brick walls and tolerance for the all-day café buff are pure Chicago.
Lunch for two $18
1920 W. Division St.; 773/395-9434
WHERE TO SHOP
Penelope's
Collectors of ironic T-shirts can buy them here. The store's two pug dogs, along with some stuffed-toy doppelgängers, attest to West Town's status as pug capital of Chicago. Don't miss the chance to one-up the Ms. Pac-Man champion on the machine.
1913 W. Division St.; 773/395-2351
Ann's Bakery
The supply shop of choice for herring and horseradish lovers, this omnibus Eastern European grocery carries eight Ukrainian-language newspapers and a bakery display anchored by a 14 inch loaf of challah.
2158 W. Chicago Ave.; 773/384-5562
StinkerBelle
Jennifer McCoy, a 25-year-old graduate of the neighborhood's Chicago Academy for the Arts High School, peddles bath products (some proceeds go to women in distress) and locally made accessories; she also holds knitting classes here.
1951 W. Division St., 773/252-4120
WHERE TO GO
Darkroom
Leather booths and a raw wooden floor tone down the atmosphere of this nightspot, where red developer lights beneath the bar highlight retro 8x10 photos from the owner's suburban Midwestern childhood. DJ's lampoon Texas and George Bush, and political themes from the punk-rock 80's resonate.
2210 W. Chicago Ave.; 773/276-1411
Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral
This 1903 landmark was built by the great skyscraper innovator Louis Sullivan. From the outside, the small stucco cathedral and its cupola have an understated, Candy Land look, but the sweeping interior, with its stained glass and rococo altar, is awe-inspiring.
1121 N. Leavitt St.
Copyright © 2008, American Express Publishing. All rights reserved.