Where to Stay, Eat and Go

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Nestled between the eastern edge of the pampas and the sluggish Río de la Plata, Buenos Aires is temperate but humid year-round. In July, the dead of winter in Argentina, 60 degrees is about as chilly as it gets during the day, while in the summer month of December, temperatures can reach 90 degrees. Major U.S. carriers and Aerolineas Argentinas offer direct flights from many U.S. cities, including New York, Miami, and Chicago.

WHERE TO STAY
Alvear Palace Hotel
After a major renovation, the brass trim gleams as brightly as it did when Evita used to stop by for tea in the 1940's. Doubles from $440. 1891 Avda. Alvear; 800/223-6800 or 54-11/4804-7777; www.alvearpalace.com

Faena Hotel + Universe
Be sure to request a city-view room at this new hotel in a converted grain depository. Doubles from $350. 445 Martha Salotti; 54-11/4010-9000; www.faenahotelanduniverse.com

Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires
On the edge of the Recoleta district, the Four Seasons combines a 158-room tower and a seven-suite mansion. Doubles from $350. 1086 Posadas; 800/332-3442 or 54-11/4321-1200; www.fourseasons.com

Hotel NH Latino
BEST VALUE A centrally located branch of the affordable NH chain. Doubles from $110. 309 Suipacha; 800/232-9860 or 54-810/222-6464; www.nh-hotels.com

Palacio Duhau, Park Hyatt Buenos Aires
When it opens, the 165-room Park Hyatt will raise the bar for luxury hotels here. Doubles from $350. 1661 Avda. Alvear; 800/223-1234 or 54-11/5171-1235; www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com

WHERE TO EAT
Bar Uriarte
A sleek spot where the food is as beautiful as the crowd. Dinner for two $28. 1572 Uriarte; 54-11/4834-6004

Dora
Bustling lunchtime favorite, with top-notch seafood. Lunch for two $28. 1016 L.N. Alem; 54-11/4311-2891

El Mirasol de la Recova
This classic steak restaurant has several locations in the city. Dinner for two $48. 1032 Posadas; 54-11/4326-7322

La Cabaña
Orient-Express Hotels has brought Argentina's legendary steak restaurant back to life. Dinner for two $50. 1967 Rodriguez Peña; 54-11/4814-0001

La Cabrera
A packed bistro, known for its prime cuts of beef. Dinner for two $25. 5099 Cabrera; 54-11/4831-7002

Mark's Deli & Coffeehouse
Lunch for two $10. 4701 El Salvador; 54-11/4832-6244

Ølsen
Nordic furnishings and Scandinavian cuisine. Dinner for two $35. 5870 Gorriti; 54-11/4776-7677

Restaurant Sucre
Dinner for two $48. 676 Sucre; 54-11/4782-9082

Social Paraíso
Globally influenced cuisine in a sunny bistro. Dinner for two $28. 5182 Honduras; 54-11/4831-4556

WHERE TO SHOP
Arte Étnico Argentino
4600 El Salvador; 54-11/4833-5111

Calma Chicha
4925 Calle Honduras; 54-11/4831-1818

Malu y Carla Ricciardi
2212 Malabia; 54-11/4833-5965

Cat Ballou
1702 Avda. Alvear; 54-11/4811-9792

Coragroppo
4696 El Salvador; 54-11/4832-5877

Daniel Maman Fine Art
2475 Avda. del Libertador; 54-11/4804-3700

Humawaca
4692 El Salvador; 54-11/4832-2662

La Dolfina Polo Lifestyle
1315 Avda. Alvear; 54-11/4815-2698

María Blizniuk
Hip fashions by Argentinean and Brazilian designers. 1794 Borges; 54-11/4833-6558

Nike
1615 Gurruchaga; 54-11/4832-3555

Ruth Benzacar
Contemporary artists from B.A. and beyond. 1000 Florida; 54-11/4313-8480

WHAT TO DO
Jard&icute;n Zoológico de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires
Avdas. General Las Heras and Sarmiento; 54-11/4011-9900

Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires
3415 Avda. Figueroa Alcorta; 54-11/4808-6500

Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo
1902 Avda. del Libertador; 54-11/4802-6606

WHERE TO TANGO
Bar Sur
Dinner and show for two $72. 299 Estados Unidos; 54-11/4362-6086

Confiter&icute;a Ideal
Entrance fee for two $5. 384 Suipacha; 54-11/5265-8069

TRIP PLANNER
Maiten
These Argentina experts will flawlessly orchestrate every aspect of your trip. 54-11/4314-3390; www.mai10.com.ar

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