After tango shows and fútbol matches, there are plenty of ways to access Buenos Aires’s rich traditions. The labyrinth of dwellings, cisterns, creeks, and courtyards below San Telmo at El Zanjón reveal centuries of urban living dating back to the 1500’s, when the city was founded. In neighboring Montserrat, the recently restored Palacio Barolo became the city’s first skyscraper when it opened in 1923. A tour of the Art Nouveau–inspired building offers some of the best views of the skyline. Argentina’s leading folk musicians stamp out complex rhythms at Palermo’s popular music hall La Peña del Colorado. In less-visited Caballito, locals have bargained with butchers and greengrocers for more than 100 years under the iron arcades of Mercado del Progreso. If you’re looking for the perfect souvenir, visit the Pick Market, Recoleta’s airy new food hall.