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Guide to Bahia

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WHEN TO GO

Bahia’s tropical Atlantic coastal region remains hot and humid year-round. April through July are the rainy months. Both foreign travelers and local vacationers crowd the streets during the high season, December through March, which is the most festive time of year, centered around February’s Carnaval.

GETTING THERE

Delta, American, and United all serve Rio and São Paulo from major U.S. hubs, and Continental offers nonstop flights out of Newark and Houston to São Paulo. From there, Brazilian carriers TAM and Varig make the two-hour flight to Salvador, the capital of Bahia. U.S. citizens need a visa to visit Brazil ($100; contact the embassy at 202/238-2700 or www.brasilemb.org).

Matuete
This Sao Paulo-based boutique travel agency specializes in custom luxury itineraries from Bahia to the Amazon. Robert Betenson is an invaluable local resource for everything from locating the perfect pousada in Fortaleza to gallery hopping in Caruaru and finding secret beaches in Natal. info@matuete.com; 011-55-11/3071-4515
www.matuete.com

WHERE TO STAY

Convento do Carmo Hotel
Conveniently located in the Old Town, only minutes from the beach.
1 Rua do Carmo, Pelourinho; 55-71/3327-8400; www.lhw.com; doubles from $385, including breakfast.

Hotel Redfish
Eight-room guesthouse filled with hand-painted furniture. Rooms are bright, with terraces and open-air showers.
1 Ladeira do Boqueirão, Santo Antônio; 55-71/3241-0639; www.hotelredfish.com; doubles from $111.

WHERE TO EAT

Acarajé da Cira
Rua Aristides Milton, Largo de Itapuã, Itapuã; lunch for two $3.

Paraiso Tropical
98B Rua Edgar Loureiro, Cabula; 55-71/3384-7464; dinner for two $28.

Sorveteria da Ribeira
87 Praça General Osório, Ribeira; 55-71/3316-5451.

Yemanjá
Local spot famous for its traditional moquecas and other Bahian cuisine.
4655 Avda. Otávio Mangabeira, Pituba; 55-71/3461-9010; dinner for two $33.

WHAT TO DO

Candomblé ceremonies
Arrange a visit through your hotel or through Singtur, which has guides for both city and candomblé tours.

Fundo do Cravinho
Samba hot spot with live music nightly.
5 terreiro de Jesus; 55-71/3321-7802.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo
Seventeenth-century church combining Neoclassical interiors with Baroque and Rococo carvings in the sacristy.
Largo do Carmo.

Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo
Originally founded in 1636, this church was rebuilt in Neoclassical style in 1828.
Largo do Carmo.

Museu Afro-Brasileiro
Housed in Brazil’s first School of Medicine, this extensive collection of crafts chronicles the strong African influence on Brazilian culture.
Antiga Faculdade de Medicina, terreiro de Jesus; 55-71/3321-2013.

O Cravinho
Famous bar with a vast selection of cachaças and other local, traditional drinks.
3 terreiro de Jesus; 55-71/3322-6759.

Singtur
20 Praça José de Alencar, 2nd floor, Largo do Pelourinho; 55-71/3492-2212.

Copyright © 2008, American Express Publishing. All rights reserved.