• E-mail to a Friend
  • Print Print
  • RSS RSS
  • AddThis

Guide to Bordeaux

Return to main article

When to Go

Much of wine country shuts down for the winter, so the best time to visit is from March to October.

Getting There

Flights from Paris connect to Mérignac Airport, or take the TGV express train to Bordeaux. Be advised: allow for heavy traffic when driving in the city.

Where to Stay

Château Cordeillan-Bages

An 18th-century Relais & Châteaux property, home to chef Thierry Marx’s now-legendary restaurant. Route des Châteaux, Pauillac; 33-5/56-59-24-24; cordeillanbages.com; doubles from $294.

Château les Merles

A traditional country house with many updates and a nine-hole golf course. Tuilières, Mouleydier; 33-5/53-63-13-42; lesmerles.com; doubles from $230.

Château Rigaud

great value A chic, medieval property with 10 acres of landscaped grounds. Mouliets et Villemartin; 33-5/57-40-78-59; chateaurigaud.co.uk; doubles from $222.

Hostellerie de Plaisance

This recently updated four-star hotel in St.-Émilion features celebrated chef Philippe Etchebest. Place du Clocher; St.-Émilion; 33-5/57-55-07-55; hostellerie-plaisance.com; doubles from $399.

La Maison Bord’eaux

Modern but homey, this tasteful B&B is a long overdue addition to a city short of up-to-date lodgings. 113 Rue du Dr. Albert Barraud, Bordeaux; 33-5/56-44-00-45; lamaisonbord-eaux.com; doubles from $266, including breakfast.

Le St.-James

Booking a room without also booking a table at Michel Portos’s in-house eatery is a crime. 3 Place Camille Hostein, Bouliac; 33-5/57-97-06-00; saintjames-bouliac.com; doubles from $251.

Regent Bordeaux

This 150-room hotel’s “Fashion Avenue” offers Van Cleef & Arpels, Chopard, YSL, Gucci, Roberto Cavalli, and more. 2 Place de la Comédie; 800/545-4000; regenthotels.com; doubles from $346.

Where to Eat and Drink

Le Bar à Vins

An airy wine bar with reasonable by-the-glass prices. 3 Cours du XXX Juillet, Bordeaux; 33-5/56-00-43-47.

Café Lavinal

A terrific bistro beloved by locals. Place Desquet (Village Bages), Pauillac; 33-5/57-75-00-09; dinner for two $44.

Le Lion d’Or

Route des Châteaux, Arcins; 33-5/56-58-96-79; dinner for two $117.

Le Petit Commerce

22 Rue du Parlement St.-Pierre, Bordeaux; 33-5/56-79-76-58; dinner for two $82.

Restaurant La Cape

9 Allée de la Morlette, Cenon; 33-5/57-80-24-25; dinner for two $117.

La Tupina

In colder months, ask for a seat in the front room to be close to the fire. 6 Rue Porte de la Monnaie, Bordeaux; 33-5/56-91-56-37; dinner for two $162.

What to Do

CAPC Musée d’Art Contemporain

Set in a former warehouse, the museum shows a rotating collection of art from the 1960’s to the present. 7 Rue Ferrère, Bordeaux; 33-5/56-00-81-50.

Musée National des Douanes

A museum of French customs throughout history. Place de la Bourse, Bordeaux; 33-5/56-48-82-85.

Wine Tours

James Bonnardel

Direct France; 33-8/72-25-17-89.

What to Read

Vipers’ Tangle, by François Mauriac

The seminal work by the great novelist, poet, Nobel laureate, and native Bordelais.

Copyright © 2008, American Express Publishing. All rights reserved.