Guide to the Bierzo Valley, Spain | Travel + Leisure

Guide to the Bierzo Valley, Spain

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When to Go

Summer is extraordinary in Bierzo, where, thanks to a gerrymandered time zone (same longitude as Belfast; same clock as Berlin), daylight lasts until almost 11 p.m. Most area towns have harvest festivals in the fall. As in much of Spain, late fall and winter can get surprisingly cold.

Getting There

Villafranca is a five-hour train ride or a three-hour drive from Madrid. You can fly to Léon from Madrid, Santiago de Compostela, or La Coruna.

Where to Stay

Parador de Villafranca del Bierzo Handsome and comfortable government-run hotel where I stayed with full, if feckless, service. 28 Avda. Calvo Sotelo, Villafranca del Bierzo; 34/987-540-175; www.parador.es; doubles from $115.

AC Ponferrada Modern chain hotel in the provincial capital, a 15-minute drive from Villafranca. 2 Avda. de Astorga, Ponferrada; 34/987-409-973; www.ac-hotels.com; doubles from $137.

Where to Eat

Menta y Canela Traditional ingredients in unconventional preparations from Bierzo’s most ambitious chef. 10 Alonso Cano, Ponferrada; 34/987-403-289; lunch or dinner for two $100.

Meson El Lagar de Montejos Local and regional specialties, including well-sourced seafood. 3 La Cabrita, San Andres de Montejos; 34/987-402-029; lunch or dinner for two $80.

Las Pallozas A6 Highway, Exit 399 Carracedelo; 34/987-684-025; lunch for two $25.

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