T+L Reports: China's Food Scene
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T+L Reports: China's Food Scene

China's food scene may still be in its infancy, but two restaurant openings provide a glimpse
into its future. Beijing Housed in a slender, two-story space
near the Forbidden City, RBL (53 Dong An Men; 86-10/6522-1389; www.rbl-china.com;
dinner for two $125) has a wave-shaped bamboo ceiling and soldier-neat rows of white Scandinavian
chairs, courtesy of Handel Lee (the man behind Three on the Bund). Whether he's improvising
artful plates of sashimi or dishing up seasonal main courses like grilled moonfish with Sichuan
peppercorns, sliced truffles, and Chinese broccoli, chef Max Levy employs local products,
sourced from Dalian to Hainan. Shanghai Farther south, master
designer Adam D. Tihany has created Jade on 36 (33 Fucheng Lu, Pudong Shangri-La;
86-21/6882-8888; dinner for two $220), a rooftop French boîte with a gold ceiling, mahogany
walls, and whimsical touches like glowing six-foot-tall snuff bottles. With views of the Bund
to inspire him, chef Paul Pairet offers up a wink-wink approach to his cooking: a giant french
fry is paired with a ketchup sorbet; foie gras comes wrapped like a lollipop in tamarind accompanied
by shots of hot green tea and cold champagne foam.

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