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Though it's hard to resist popping into the vast Harrods, even if only for the food halls, the chic money has long since moved down the block to Harvey Nichols (109-125 Knightsbridge; 44-207/235-5000), London's answer to Barneys. Unlike Harrods, Harvey Nicks is small enough to be manageable, but it's big enough to boast a vast assortment of clothes from all over the world: Dries van Noten's avant-garde efforts from Belgium; Proenza Schouler's reinvented American classics; Edmundo Castillo's sensual lace-up stilettos.
After an incredible revitalization, Selfridges (400 Oxford St.; 44-870/837-7377) has sprung to life, full of experimental artwork and the best designers—the Marni store with its surreal curved-steel racks is a mini version of Marni on Sloane Street.
At Fortnum & Mason (181 Piccadilly; 44-207/734-8040), chandeliers and curved Art Nouveau display cases appear to have remained untouched since the Great War, and the stock is old-fashioned too: this is perhaps the last department store in town that stocks beribboned bed jackets and silk faille parasols.
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