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Andersonville

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Andersonville is the city's traditionally Swedish enclave; the Swedish American Museum Center (5211 N. Clark St.) is a great place to acquaint yourself with the neighborhood's immigrant past. Just up Clark there are also two atmospheric Swedish delis, Erickson's (No. 5250) and Wikström's (No. 5247); their fiercely loyal customers tend to patronize one or the other, but not both. The popular Swedish Bakery (No. 5348) is known for its cakes, butter cookies, and cardamom breads.

A beloved fixture on Clark Street is the Women & Children First Bookstore (No. 5233), an independent shop that covers all the bases but is especially strong, as its name implies, on feminist subjects and kids' books. Andersonville even has pockets of style now: find cool men's shirts and jeans at Laundré (No. 5205) and His Stuff (No. 5314), vintage furniture and collectibles at White Attic (No. 5408) and Scout (No. 5221).The area's booming restaurant scene includes Reza's (No. 5255), a boisterous Persian restaurant, and the contemporary American Tomboy (No. 5402). A Taste of Heaven (No. 5401) is a longtime standout for great chicken pot pie and other homespun treats. Want more tastes of Sweden? Go for the meatballs and lingonberries at the equally popular (and good) Svea (No. 5236) or Ann Sather (No. 5207).

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